Search results

If you have a look at the end of the valve head it will give a number starting with V. Honeywell 40003916-001 Powerhead for V4043.............. I think Need to make sure you replace it with a Honeywell 2 port head.

Remove the cover and you will find there are 2 screws diagonally opposite each other. What is the fault??

Not sure about your reason for changing the valve but they are modern Honeywell valves. This means you can replace either the whole head, the sychron motor or the ball and plate. Depends upon the fault you are experiencing. Hope this helps

As Ollski suggested get a bung kit. Basically 2 bungs. Place one in the feed from the F&E tank (the smaller tank that feeds your CH/HW system) and the other over the vent pipe that comes over the top of this tank. This will create a vacuum in the pipework and should hold most of the water...

Sensible to keep away from gas..... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Central-Heating-Fault-Finding-Repair/dp/0954601300/ref=pd_sim_b_2 [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Central-Heating-Fault-Finding-Repair/dp/0954601300/ref=pd_sim_b_2] This book is quite well thought out and sticks to system issues rather...

Some further info about your system, type of boiler, make/model might be good.

Current vent requirements are not new. Your boiler has always required suitable ventilation dependent upon the kW input of the appliance. As far as I am aware....... New vents through the floor have to be ducted throughout their length. Very difficult to do retrospectively. Existing...

Yes, but its not a Worcester 28i ! They are not one of the most reliable boilers! It may not be ideal...... but at least its not an Ideal

Tell us the Make and model and we can advise you on rough age, regular faults etc. But don't worry yourself into a fault

Boiler make and model would help. Does the boiler fire for Htg? This pretty much tells you if the boiler simply works or not. If this has a diaphragm does the pin move? to operate the microswitch?

Probably most but not all combi's use a diaphragm to detect the hot tap turning on. With modern combi boilers pretty much everything is controlled by the PCB

Call BG and request that they don't send the same engineer. This happens quite often. Clearly he has made his mind up about your system. Whether he is right or wrong you want a second opinion. This all stems from a zone valve letting by..... this happens on the cleanest of systems...

You probably only need to change the Pump Head. Cheaper and far far easier than the whole pump.

Before you get deeper into this can I suggest a fixed price repair?? Might be a good idea Do excuse Agile..... you kind of get use to him Love the video!!! More of this please

I wild guess would suggest the pump needs replacing. Is it turning when demand is placed upon it?? Is it getting 240V?? Put a screwdriver against it. Sharp end against the pump shaft and the blunt end to your ear. (not conclusive) Unscrew the vent screw to check. Warning maybe very...

I suspect the engineer is pushing the Powerflush as he is under pressure to sell upgrades. This sort of sales pressure is why many very good BG engineers leave. We do get a commission of sorts for selling things which is fine so long as the selling is right. As previously advised they don't...

Don't you just love Tom and his tips.

Really need to know what the existing boiler are. May be worth keeping. I would ask the rep back and challenge him on the quote. I realise they are quoting for linking the 2 existing systems together but they have quoted for 105m of pipework (not including the gas rerun) Are the 2 systems...

Call BG and explain and ask that they change your contract to a fixed price repair. Otherwise it is chargeable.

Sounds like a combi would suit you. No reason why it cannot be installed in the loft. Gas supply would need to be run up to the loft, and there are a number of requirements when having a boiler in the loft - lighting, boarding etc for safe access. Look for a local installer, hopefully...