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Yeah, you’re right. I couldn’t think of a way of doing a continuous cut the way I was doing it on my workbench, and I was doing it freehand. The saw motor housing would have hit the clamps if I’d used a straight edge. :oops:. I’ve got one more to do, I might put a bit more thought into this...

Thanks for the tip….it wasn’t the best of cuts, as you can see :( But with a bit of sanding, a couple of coats of MDF primer, then another sanding. It looked ok Cheers :)

Update….. The circular saw worked a treat, gave a clean cut, saved lots of time, and saved my hand saw blade :) Thanks for the advice folks (y):)

Bugger….yes I have, I couldn’t find any square edge locally :cry: . That would have been perfect !!

That’s a great tip….thanks (y):cry:

They come as bull nosed, with a slight cut-out at the back for how the windows are designed. So they need cutting square edged :cry:

Ha, ha…..looks ok from a distance !! Thanks :)

You’ve got that correct. Here’s some pics of the one I did in the kitchen (hard work with a handsaw). The ones I’ve got to do are up to 2.3m, and will be a pain with a handsaw !! And I’ve seen plenty of examples of flush sills online, so it should be ok :unsure: . And all the internal walls are...

I’m after a straight cut on the outer edge, flush with the inner wall, so it’s got to be a really clean cut.

I thought a circular saw might just “rip” the bottom of the MDF ?? :unsure:

Nice job

Hi :), Confident and competent DIY’er here……Hope someone can help me with this one please ?? I’m using 25mm thick MDF window board for my internal window sills. I want a flush square edge level with the internal wall. My Jedi mind powers are telling me a circular saw will make a dogs dinner of...

I’ve got a drip try under the copper now, so I can at least see if there’s a leak in the future. The foam insulation round the pipe was hiding / soaking up the leak, even though there was a slight discolouration on the garage concrete I didn’t realise there was a leak until I cleared some stuff...

Well….its held for 24 hours, so I’ll leave it be, but definitely not my best work :giggle: Thanks for the replies and advice (y):)

Cheers…..am keeping an eye on it for now, but not convinced :oops::cry: The joint gave a bit of a pop and a fizzle (for want of a better word) as I was initially soldering it, and that’s where the leak was…..is there a usual cause for that ?? It’s not something I’ve ever noticed before :unsure:

Hi, Hope someone can help me with this one please ?? Competent DIY'er here, who's soldered dozens and dozens of copper fittings without any issue. I've just cut out a section of vertical 15mm copper pipe that had a pin prick leak for months and had to use a solder ring slip coupling to put...

Thanks for the info

I'm using Everbuild 825 anthracite silicone for the shower seals......so to check silicone does / does not stick to silicone I ran out a bead of it, let it set, then ran another bead over the top and it definitely sticks !! Whether that lasts over time is another matter, but at least I know it...

Looks ok.....from a distance !! :p . It's the same as all jobs.....you look with a very critical eye when you're in the middle of it and looking at it, but once it's done and you're not looking any more....it looks ok ;) Thanks for the replies, advice and kind words :)

I did the white round the bath today with Unibond Triple Protection silicone. It’s supposed to be the best, but was quite “runny” to work with ‍:unsure: Again, it didn’t go as perfect as I wanted it to with a few ripples, lines, defects that I had to go over and over with the Fugi tool. The...