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Hi guys, I have carried out the "System will not set" flow chart from the installation instructions. I have confirmed that the PIRs are all working, but linking from the AUX TAMPER with wire. Light did not go out. I then proceeded to fit the link between the TMP- and H/O-. The tamper...

Morning... I have set the system to engineers mode and have throughly checked each PIR. All wiring looks to be in order. I have ensured that I have closed each PIR correctly, maintaining that the Tamper switch is active. I have also checked the control box in the loft and confirmed that...

Hey, Nope battery replacement was straight forward. With regards to the tamper part, are you talking about the control box being sensitive as well as the pir? Doobs.

Thanks sparky, I'll try it tomorrow. Doobs.

Guys, Need some help diagnosing this alarm. I have the engineers code. In the past I have decorated the living room, which contains a PIR. I neglected to put the system into install(engineer) mode and unscrewed the PIR to run some wall paper. As you can guess, alarm went off, etc...

going to do this..... :D Thanks, Doobs.

So, Top Manifold - Hose connected from outside tap - first valve open Bottom Manifold - Drain hose connected to bucket - first valve open Water flowed to bucket - slowly, not fast like the other loops Cheers, Doobs

Ok, Top manifold had cold water being pushed through via hose pipe On top manifold, first valve fully opened, rest all closed. On bottom manifold, first lockshield valve fully opened, rest all closed. Water flowed...but the bottom host (with lockshield) never got cold. Doobs

LOL! No - what I mean is if I remove the lockshield valve (assuming this is what you are saying)... removing the lockshield valve from the manifold - yes I can do this - but how to connect into the 22mm thread from a hose pipe?!?

The water was initially black coming out, then it cleared. I am pretty sure it's the right valve as i had to open it :) How can I connect a hose directly to the valve ? Remembering that it is connected to the manifold. I would have to unconnected it with a spanner, but then not sure how...

Hmm, not sure on the kinking as it is embedded in scree... And has worked previously. I have flushed though the system but it seems like something is blocking it... Is a power flush worth looking into?

Ok guys.... I think I have almost solved this. The main 83m loop appears to have reduced flow in the pipe. The reason I know this is that I have attached a cold water feed to the flow manifold and set up each loop as instructed. The second biggest loop 50+ meters, went cold from the...

Thanks. So my plan - replace the lockshield valve, which I know to be faulty. Using the mains pressure purge any air from the system. Then repressurise the entire system. Ok, throwing this out there, how do I know what pressure to re-pressurise the system too? Doobs

Is it easy to replace all the manifolds? They are over 8 years old now?

Thanks, i'll give your suggestions a try...! One other thing, do you always have to pressurise the system, even when you have "topped" it up due to replacing a valve? As I have replaced a valve previously, but not re-pressurised....

Hi Simon, Thanks for the reply. The UFH in the front room gets warm, but no where near how we would like it. The Kitchen is really warm, as is the utility room. I "know" there is a faulty lockshield valve, which I am going to replace. There is something weird going on, for example...

Yes esbe. It's currently set to 3 of 6 clicks. The main issue is that the copper pipe coming vertically down loses the 10 degrees in temp... Doobs.

Guys, Firstly, you are so very helpful, so a big thank you. I am trying to figure out the final bits of my UFH puzzle and would appreciate some final advice. This is my UFH manifold. The bottom copper pipe comes from the boiler, through the main pump, into a motorised valve, then...

Hi Stem, Thank you for coming back to me. What is wrong is that the living room simply doesnt get warm enough. I have been working with the company that makes the products used in the UFH to try and determine where the problem might lie. We have identified a faulty lockshield valve...

Thank you for clarifying.... This auto bypass valve - does it do what it says on the tin? Allows hot water to automatically go to the other systems?