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It will always crack. Bad idea to chase heating pipes into wall, as they will contract. You could try removing all of the plaster, then use expanding foam all over, then scrim tape over the lot, then three coats of skim. But there will always be the risk of cracking. Far better to box in, or...

You can buy 'obliterating' emulsions which are typically white and cover dark colours as well, as well as trade emulsions. Cheap DIY emulsions can be hopeless at covering dark colours, so avoid those.

That will work. What you SHOULD be doing, is determining which of those two blacks is SWITCH LIVE and which is NEUTRAL. Because by not finding out, you could be connecting to the neutral of the light to switch live; and the live of the light to neutral - which although not dangerous, is still...

Does it work? Any pictures of the old connections?

No need to oversleeve the interconnect wire on a smoke brown though. Modern 4 core flex consists of brown, blue, black, g+y. I suppose Aico would stipulate blue as being neutral - particularly as the first cable from the mains to the first smoke detector wouldn't require 4 wires (unless a test...

The fixed wiring and a joint are probably behind the light fitting.

You could put all three wires to the IN connections, or all three wires to the OUT connections - it wouldn't make a scrap of difference.

I would say it's a buzzer/doorbell.

How do you the fan only pull switch is in the off position, and not the on position??

I remember those plugs - didn't they have a strange slit in the live pin? EDIT. Yes they did - just seen Sunray's pic.

It doesn't matter at all - but I think most would have L1 of the fuse as IN, and L2 of the fuse as OUT.

I think it's the back draught shutter.

The question is, is there a cooker outlet, coming from the cooker panel in your picture, in place ready to connect the cooker? Or perhaps a coil of cable, emerging from the wall, ready to connect to the cooker? If there isn't, and you need to get a cable from the cooker to your cooker panel in...

The load would typically be a light (for example in a shed), via a switch.

What ARE these wires you have in connector blocks? Are they actually live, neutral and earth? Is this a socket circuit, or is it a lighting circuit? Send a photo if you can.

There should be a way of using this, assuming you are only going to use small loads. It looks like there is a single back box behind. If you get a double or even a triple CONVERTA socket (names vary), you should be able to have a flush socket that should cover most if not all of the hole in the...

What about that in-line fuse, that's floating about? Is that anything to do with it?

What does the customer say about it all?

Probably easiest to get an electrician to move they grey tails - by running them across the top of the consumer unit, then into the right hand side of the cu. He would longer tails. He will have to put some kind of bung in the bottom of the cu to get rid of the hole. Can't you just build round...

Are you certain the single red went in with the other reds?