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Didn't realise Crabtree and Volex (and Wylex?) distribution gear will still be available.

Yes - that's a more accurate description of what is going to happen. Appleby dry-line boxes are excellent - buy what you can now.

Rumour I heard. Crabtree stuff won't be available at least.

Think Temco and Volex merged many decades ago.

Those Volex ceiling roses were decades ago. Volex is part of Electrium now, which also make stuff for Crabtree and Wylex - so you will recognise some of the components re actually the same. Think Electrium is going to be no more soon though.

It depends if the metal box can be left in the wall, and linger faceplate screws can be used. Or if there is good reason to use a plastic dry-line box instead. Is he planning on using tanking/bitumen on the brickwork first? It's no bother extending each individual wire with a wago if you have...

I agree with H. It looks like a builder or amateur has done the work. I would like to see every connection checked or re-terminated, earth sleeving and grommets fitted, and also the consumer unit should be checked for ALL secure connections too.

It would work upside down by that method. Don't use the L2s.

Less is more when it comes to filling in these kind of cracks on textured surfaces. If you put too much filler on, it WILL notice when it's painted.

Seem to remember buying an Axiom 2 way board for a shower, then taking it back in disgust for a Wylex one - but can't remember why...

But there needs to be a piece of earth wire from that connector block to the earth terminal on the socket.

Have you loosened any of the socket fronts off the wall to do your diagram? If so, were there any loose wires? I'm NOT suggesting you start taking anything apart at this time of night. Or ever. But I must remind you, ALWAYS make sure the power is off, and to work safely, when doing all...

Well, since your diagram shows working sockets EITHER SIDE of the boiler switch, we can eliminate the boiler switch for the time being.

Captfinnbad, May not be as simple as that, as it's likely the wiring is wired in the form of a ring. Also, the boiler works, so don't rely on it being something to do with the boiler switch. Unless of course, it's a radial circuit, and there's a loose connection in the boiler switch. Unlikely...

This could be a red herring. Have you looked in ALL the kitchen cupboards?

The sockets in the kitchen that AREN'T working appear to be a lower, more modern height, compared to the ones that ARE working in the kitchen. Which to me suggests the lower ones are a newer addition. Perhaps.

I'd be surprised if it's anything to do with that. The fuse in that SHOULD be for the boiler only. Does the boiler appear to have power? EDIT. Boilers tend to need a 3 amp fuse, and nothing higher should ever be fitted.

What's in that funny looking eye level cupboard next to the toaster?

As Pete says above. Also, any more hidden fuse boxes or fused spurs? In kitchen cupboards, for example?