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What MAY be confusing the op is the illogical way they often tend to label intermediate switches, because TO ME, it would make more sense if the top row was labelled L1 and L2, and the bottom row labelled L1 and L2 - to match the configuration of the 2-way switches. But there you go.

You need to do it ALL by brush. Rollers give a poor finish on doors, where everyone sees it. You really need to gently sand it all flat again. If you gloss straight over the lightly sanded door, you do risk small scratches and small patches being visible - so I would recommend another undercoat...

I remember this method, and nearly contemplated trying to use it for this puzzle,

Looking forward to seeing Endecotp's thoughts/solution on this.

Ah.

Can you explain a bit further? (Do you mean it won't be a true 2 way system?)

As I understand it, we can alter things in the switch boxes, but we CANNOT run additional wires anywhere (even though it is in conduit). I would say links in the switch boxes would be more than acceptable.

Firstly, how easy is it to get a third (yellow or otherwise) wire there? EDIT. Forgot this is a puzzle, rather than an actual problem. Let me think...

Seems odd using fungicide instead of stabiliser on porous surfaces. Can you send photos of the job, just to get an idea of the calibre of the painters?

As much as I like old stuff, why not just rewire if necessary and fit modern back boxes, and fit modern reproduction switches? There is quite convincing modern reproduction stuff out there, that will comply to modern standards.

You could of course lower the ceiling, and you will have a void.

All I can suggest is you fit plastic conduits in the plaster, and draw plans of where they are. You could later drill holes into the plaster and into the conduits, and then fish cables through.

Another option, though you may not like it, is are recessed ceiling spots, which can be tilted at the pictures.

Picture lights and lighting tracks look naff nowadays.

In answer to your question, an average electrician should be able to change that rose for a batten holder, using the wiring as it is, in less than half an hour (I'm allowing extra time to get a good fixing, as so often these things are screwed into fresh air). He may insist you must have an...

What he saved on cheaper boxes, he put towards longer screws. Didn't realise this was DIY and small jobs.

So, for an old style single socket, which required a 35mm box, he would use a 16mm box? I bet the plasterers loved him.

But surely, in the 50s and 60s, only 35mm boxes were used for sockets (they were often those MK or MEM sockets which were chunky at the back; and 16mm boxes for light switches (no one ran neutrals to switches much in those days). I thought 25mm boxes only came out around 1970, when sockets were...

Yes, but you should avoid the pipes and cables touching each other.

Yes, it's a late 1980s Tenby switch. They added the logo at the bottom somewhere around 1990.