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I would personally check out the Windows Event Viewer. Leave it "unattended" by staring and not touching anything until it resets and note the time. Then when you reboot, open the Event Viewer (easily found with a quick Google if unsure) and then report back. Only thing I can think of hardware...

You can probably find a decent one in screwfix but I'd give Wickes and the like a miss.

I would highly suggest you give the manufacturer a ring on this and see what they say.

If in doubt, just use Fibatape (the HB stuff) or a wet room tape.

Yeah plastic does suck but it's malleable so that's why I suggested it. Maybe give someone like Genesis or Homelux a ring and see if they have any suggestions?

Plasterboard, whilst moisture resistant, can still blow rather badly if it fails. Get some Hardiebacker, fix as per MI and then you're good to go. Sure it's not the cheapest way but hell, it's reliable.

I think your builder sounds a bit out of his depth. Don't tile on fresh plaster for at least 3 weeks, YES you SHOULD tank it. Experience says most builders aren't great tilers. Can you give some more details on the materials he's using and what tiles are being fixed?

Could you get a plastic trim to curve adequately by making incisions in the hidden part to allow for movement with no buckling?

No, don't even bother going onto the timber/chipboard. I would personally: Hardiebacker over the timber as per the MIs (300mm centre, countersunk but I might be wrong on that) Hardiebacker over the chipboard. The paint and nature of chipboard anyway would cause a failure quicker than...

Give the manufacturer a ring and get them to either okay it or tell you to get the scrubbing pads out. I don't think it would be a problem but the more you know! :)

If you're referring to the tiles from CTD, then I would say no. The dark spots are probably due to the effect this tile gives but give them a ring to double check.

PVA is not suitable for tiling. The slightest hint of moisture and it's live again. Take a read of this: http://www.accesstraininguk.co.uk/news/post/2013/07/12/Prime-or-PVA-before-Tiling.aspx OP, Remove all traces of the paint primer and I would personally speak to Home base Customer Services...

Use that same trowel all over to keep things nice and simple. I would definitely use your current choice adhesive and Micromax2. Micromax2 is rapid setting however so be careful how much you grout at once.

Would look a bit off surely? Quads are designed for external corners and capping mostly (or my brain isn't functioning)

Not for chrome. movement joints, yep but not in metal.

I would personally use a plastic quadrant as the cuts can be unsightly and a quadrant can sometimes address this. You need to allow for movement so a 2 mm spacer and a bead of silicone( not grout) will see you right.

Cement based powder. Does he also recommend dabbing? If so then take a rain check on future tiling advice from him as to put it bluntly, he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about. If you were to use ready mix, the adhesive would fail. There's science behind it that I'm sure someone will...

Out of curiosity Lee, have you seen that new anti crack matting with UFH installed into it? OP I would agree that putting down some thermal boards would be a good idea.

Probably because most builders seem to think skimming plasterboard makes it as strong as backer board.

Yeah I'd say 18mm would be best. Edit: With HB of course!