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I would just tile over the mats and make sure to use a plastic trowel to avoid nicks.

If I remember correctly, you can screw the HB onto the joists below. But I might be thinking about something else. You could just replace with 12 mm ply and put 6 mm Hardie over the top of that. Or just straight up 15 mm or 18mm ply with reverse and sides sealed with SBR.

Don't forget to ensure adequate waterproofing to stop any water getting in that hole. last thing you would want is rotten beams.

I would personally tank it before tiling or at least put waterproof matting up. Make sure you use a full bed of adhesive. I regards to the wall damage, if you make right with 12 mm Hardiebacker then it will be a dream to tile.

Ring BAL mate. They will give you the best advice in this regard.

Hardiebacker. Every time.

You should only need to seal them if they are polished. Which I wouldn't say to be a good idea for a working garage. Go for a smooth matt? Also check out the PEI ratings. I've personally got my eye on a few 60x60s for my kitchen atm and have been put off of polished incase the Mrs uses bleach on...

I've used and highly recommend the FILA Grout Sealer. Topps also have an aerosol version available. LTP and Litho are also good brands to consider. Stay away from B&Q homegrown sealers as a friend had a very bad experience with them.

You sure on that? 6mm ply = no good. It deflects. Chipboard = no good (especially the waxed stuff) as it also deflects and usually doesn't bond unless using at least an S2 class (BAL Single Part Fastflex is the only one I've ever used) Rip the chipboard up if possible and fix Hardibacker board...

Also, (I haven't watched the video as of typing) make sure to use a slow setting adhesive with the matting. Had a few customers attempt to use rapidset and it doesn't bond properly and will delaminate very quickly. Spoke to one of the reps for the manufacturer and he agreed that slow setting...

Make sure it isn't the same bloke. And pick your own tiles from a reputable tile retailer such as TG, TT, CTD etc. Not the £3.99 per m2 from BnQ (Brutally Naff Quality). When your new trader comes out, ask about tanking the shower as well to prevent future damage to substrates and you might...

Sounds like you need to get this replaced. I'd put money on water damage.

Your lucky you didn't use PVA. PVA would crapped out as soon as the substrate got wet. Maybe an acrylic primer would of been advisable depending on MI but if it's done it's done.

Not sure if this is over and done now but these are fixed in store with a 2 mm joint. However I would suggest you pop into your local store and ask if they have it on display. Also it's worth noting that these tiles are porcelain and NOT ceramic.

1. Sorry, I haven't the foggiest but if it's asbestos, get a professional. 2. See point 1 3. PVA isn't suitable for tiling. Use acrylic primer or SBR. Personally I use BAL Prime APD for my bits n pieces. 4. When you say tile shop.... depends on the brand. Some "brands" like Unibond are terrible...

Pop into a HSS Hire, Jewsons etc and ask about an air mover like Burnerman has described. They should have something available. But, alas, there isn't a less dusty way I'm afraid.

Brick Wall wet AND dry area: Overboard with Hardibacker (double check with the manufacturer for exact instructions but do not just dot n dab as not suitable for hardibacker), tape joints using Fibatape and tile. Tank if you have left over from kit. Plaster wet area: Plaster must be a minimum...

Non wet walls on plaster: Prime APD and then fixed using BAL CTF4 or equivalent adhesive. Wet walls: Tanked according to instructions of manufacturer using a high quality tanking system, then tile using powder such as CTF4. Don't plaster them as that would mean a 3 week delay to remain in...

For starters PVA is not suitable for tiling applications. Use acrylic or SBR. If it's bitumen or anhydrite then you will be in up to your neck as it will probably fracture throughout. If bitumen then remove about 90 percent of it. And walls cracking? Did you leave a 10mm expansion joint and...

Dot and dab in a bathroom is a sure way to get leaks. Make him redo it at his expense. If he didn't do any prep then your walls aren't waterproof. Btw, if that stuff came out of a tub then kick him off site as he doesn't have a clue. Tubbed adhesive shouldn't be used on anything bigger than...