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With Lee on this but heed Vinn and his advice. Manufacturer might specify an individual brand but might not.

Really? I didn't think insulation boards would cope with the deflection caused by the ply warming up. OP: might be worth ringing the manufacturer of your chosen insulation boards to check suitability over ply :)

BAL PTB for the floor and either Rapid Flex or CTF4 which is slow setting for the walls would be my own combo. The Fastflex is a superb adhesive however but may be a bit overkill on 18mm ply. Just not suitable for sparkly quartz due to the high water content.

Go into the Topps store and ask for the most proficient member of staff regarding underfloor heating as everyone's product knowledge varies depending on experience with said products. Underfloor heating is daunting for people not familiar with the gear. Overboard the floor with Hardiebacker 6...

Your welcome buddy :) and whilst it does say suitable for painted surfaces, I think it's more in reference to walls. The gravity pulling on the paint may of been the cause.

Aye but if it's tubbed and on water bloated ply then it will blow. And don't dot and dab. Let us know.

http://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/micromax-sealant/ --> should list stockists. Topps and Robert Price generally keep them but a lot of good tile retailers sell them. Don't expect to find them in the sheds though. Dow Corning you can pick up most places.

Did it work? Unibond has a poor reputation for a reason and Homebase own brand? I've never heard of it and again, probably for a good reason. Was it powder based? Ready mixed has nothing on its powder counterpart for future reference. If it goes to hell again then try something like BAL...

So no offence but even after the advice of someone highly regarded in this forum, you are still determined to use a ready mix? :/ I side with Vinn on this. Rip the lot off, overboard with 6mm backerboard (not ply, chip or mdf ) and then use a S1 (flexible) adhesive.

Question 1: No. You would just be adding more weight to the paint and then gravity will hit you like a strip of double silicone in a bathtub. (Sorry, my humour is terrible!) Question 2: I would strip off the old silicone and the paint underneath. Then repair with either high quality Dow Corning...

Bets bet would be to find a decent supplier (BnQ and their ilk do not qualify as quality suppliers IMO) of the product and speak to them. If they have a specialist technical team then even better.

That tickled me for some odd reason.

As above. Depends on the tile as to where you place cuts. If using something like a 10x20 then maybe just drop the cut at the top. Nothing uglier than a cut metro tile!

Get rid of the old muck then you can technically tile over the brickwork. Personally I would fit Hardibacker and then tile onto that.

Are they porcelain? Either way, 450x350 will require powder as opposed to dispersion (tubbed) adhesive. I would honestly say you might be better off ripping down the old to replace with the new incase the weight causes them to pop off. If it's plaster underneath then definitely.

Get a professional tiler. Pop into a local tile shop and ask for their recommendations. Or once you find a good tiler/plumber etc, ask them if they know anyone decent who can do xxx and vice/versa. Don't bother with bathroom showrooms and B&Q fitters as they are pretty **** and just wing it...

I would be inclined to say that it's moisture soaking into the slabs from condensation, then being in the shade most of the day means they don't dry properly.

Again, Lee has it right. Beava Mesh seems to be the most common knocking about. As per cutting, I would cut the glass with a good glass blade and possibly look at using the hacksaw for the metal depending on how well it would finish up. If tiling vertically then the hacksaws rough cuts would...

Depends on the substrate. If it's plaster then it will generally hold around 20kg/M2 or 32kg/M2 if plasterboard. What tiles do you intend to fix over the top? Are the existing tiles already on top of tiles?

Yes. Clay/Terracotta is porous and could stain from the sides. When I re sealed my old kitchen floor (cheap trav):I used FILA but when I went back to Topps for some more before doing a friends bathroom it had been changed to own branded stuff made by FILA. Bit more simple as it was called...