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Hi everyone! I’m swapping two cookers as I’ve moved house and I want to keep the cooker from my old home (£1600 Miele). Pictures attached are to install a cooker that had a plug on it and was plugged into a mains socket. I have cut the plug off and stripped the wires ready to attach to the...

Thanks so much for all this. I’ve done it temporarily with a junction box (as I had it handy) and called an electrician - they thought ideally the fuse needs to be brought down to match the amps- the old cooker was 32 amp in a 32 amp fuse. The new cooker is 16 amp fuse so they’ll match that...

Oh sorry behind the cooker! I’m not sure I understand what you mean I’m afraid. Would I use the socket you have advised in the same way a junction box is used: You have three holes on that socket, and so two wires of the same colour would go into each of those three holes right? How come I...

Thank you. It’s all tiled so that would be quite a job compared to a junction box – would a junction box work? Will it be okay as the wires on the cooker or smaller than the existing cable?

Hi! I’ve no idea if anyone will see this and be able to reply given the post is 19 years old. I’m trying to do the exact same thing with a new cooker I’ve bought. Would fitting the junction box apply if the wires on the new cooker or smaller than the existing cooker cable I’m going to join...

Hi! I’ve no idea if anyone will see this and be able to reply given the post is 19 years old. I’m trying to do the exact same thing with a new cooker I’ve bought. Would fitting the junction box apply if the wires on the new cooker or smaller than the existing cooker cable I’m going to join...

Also the existing wires are thicker than those on the plug of the new oven - if using a junction box is this a problem?

Hi! Just had a new cooler arrived and realised it has its own fitted cable in the back (Miele). Pic 1 shows the new cooker Pic 2 shows the old cooker attached to cable Pic 3 shows cable running behind plasterboard I am thinking all I need to do is use a junction box to connect the...

You’re spot on here! Again - I got what I came for lol and one happy man as I’ve got my fan working and that’s great for a non sparky like me. Timer would be great but saving money is better

The old fan didn’t have a timer that worked. Otherwise it functioned fine ie. turned on and off. The new one does that now and yes I can use the isolator switch to have the fan on whilst the light is off - that’s the same as another fan I have that’s been fitted by electricians which I assumed...

All’s well that ends well - I have a working new fan working the same as the old one that broke! I don’t understand much about electrics but followed the advice given and got what I needed- thanks again to those that offered advice!

It’s working as it was before and has an isolator switch so can be left on with the light off. Though the old one had a timer, it never worked since we moved in two years ago. I’ve put off this job for about 6 months whilst completing another project - next step is to remove all the mould...

Got it all sorted now - above suggestion of B was correct. Thanks so much too John!

Thank you very much jj4091

Hi everyone! I’m replacing a broken extractor fan. It has three wires - T, N and L I understand this is because the old fan had a timer. My new fan only has N and L as it doesn’t have a timer. Do I need to: A) Put the mains N to the fan N and mains L to fan L, THEN put the mains T wire in...