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Don't jump to hasty conclusions, Andy :? The poster states that the OVEN has a brass jumper whereas he's asking us about his HOB. True, but we both know that he means 6mm T&E, don't we? :roll: That sounds very sensible to me, so long as the terminals are capable of taking 2 pieces of wire...

Yep, get a multimeter or you could end up frying whatever you connect it to (or the adaptor itself if the device has a protection diode wired "backwards" across its input). A really cheap one would do for this - well under a fiver if you look around. Cheers, Nick.

Definitely worth it - unless you're prepared to live with double-insulated light fittings and accessories thorughout your whole house (invariably boring and plasticky :( ) Nick

Cheers Adam. I'd seen the MK PDF - but unfortunately their CUs are slightly too big for the gap. Wylex has something similar as you suggested, but they tell you everything - except where the knockouts are :x http://www.electrium.co.uk/download_file.asp?Type=C&Company=8&Id=1 I reckon...

He only bought it 2 weeks ago so it's still there but supplying the combi boiler ONLY. It should be gone in the next 2 weeks though, thank goodness 8) Nick

Yes, but it won't be for a few days as the flat's in London and I'm not. I've just had an e-mail back from Screwfix (on a Sunday :lol:) saying that they can't give me any more technical info on the Wylex that they stock, but that it could be returned if it's not suitable. Fair enough I...

My brother's flat currently has a spur to supply the boiler and a socket for the washing machine wired in 1.0 T&E. Also done by "reputable" kitchen fitters, so I believe :shock:

Thanks for the suggestion, that's useful. I thought I might be able to, if I stuck to the same manufacturer and overall dimensions. Nope, 4th floor. But aren't they worthwhile for supplying the white goods in the kitchen to reduce the risk of serious shocks, and to prevent fires from small...

Thanks Andy. But drilling/punching a 1" diameter hole in exactly the right place in a steel enclosure is tricky, even with the right tools - especially if it overlaps with a knockout. And the plastic ones I've looked are all too big and would not fit in the space between the conduits that...

I've found the newer one OK, but they do take 5 minutes to work up to full brightness and they are generally much longer than a normal (GLS) lamp, so can look ugly. But as well as saving money and being kind to the environment, they're great in enclosed fittings, as they won't cook the...

Thanks, Supersparks, I appreciate that 8) Let's just assume that I'm doing some homework to save the registered electrician some time (and some £££ for my brother) :wink: Nick.

Hi everyone, My brother's just bought his first flat, an ex-local authority place built in the 50s but rewired in the 80s (I'd reckon). The current electrical system is based around a surface-mounted metal consumer unit, a Wylex WY606...

Ha ha :lol: I had a friend who "mended" the leaky petrol tank on his ancient Chevette with alginate, the stuff we use to take impressions of peoples' mouths with when making dentures :shock: :shock: :shock: Nick

I repaired it by replacing the whole run from the junction box under the floor boards to the ceiling rose with 1.0mm T&E, and that was about 5 years ago, so I don't think it's that. :( The house has a flat roof and a concrete ground floor throughout, so most of the wiring is run below the...

That's a good one, John, I'll keep an eye out. But last time it happened, it was still pretty dark outside :? Cheers, Nick.

It shouldn't be too taxing to sort out, but you'd need a meter and some basic electronic knowledge to trace where the circuit is broken. You can safely assume that the element and fan and thermostat are OK though :) Good luck, Nick

Is this a fan-assisted model? If so, is the fan running or not? Common causes for this problem include a burnt-out element, a problem with the thermostat, and... the timer (if fitted) accidently switched to Auto rather than Manual - might be worth a check. No, there's not usually an...

Yes, I just thought of that :oops: No room for Stilsons, just enough room for a ring spanner, I'll let you know how it goes - don't want to tear the leadwork though :shock: If no luck, I'll have to wait until I change the kitchen units, then at least I'll have decent access. Thanks...

:lol: :lol: Used to be NHS, now P (except for kids), thanks to Tony Blair's "reforms" (aka cutbacks) :evil:

I'd agree with the other lads - a bad joint causing arcing (sparks) and a lot of heat. Lucky someone noticed it :shock: A new consumer unit would be a good idea, especially as yours has cartridge fuses and no RCD that I can see, so even when it's working properly, it's considerably less safe...