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I wish I had your magic touch, it's going nowhere for me so far :( I applied some PlusGas for a few minutes, gave it a couple of sharp taps with a hammer (nothing too hefty :lol:), heated it with the hot air paint stripper (so it was too hot to touch) and then used a basin wrench with a 5"...

Hi, I've had this kind of thing happen when the isolator disconnects neutral fractionally before live. I'd double check that it's wired the right way round, i.e. Lin, Lout, Nin and Nout connected as embossed on the isolator. Nick

Hi! Have a look at this quality site: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/electrical/electrical.html#earthing :D Nick

These do need to be earthed, although they can be safely fitted to a plastic (unearthed) backbox). Are you sure there's no earth wire present? Have a close look at the cable coming into the backbox, to make absolutely sure that it's not there but cut short. Unfortunately, properties wired...

It's going to be a cold winter (still below freezing at midday here in Oxford), and the house will be left unattended over Christmas etc., so isolation as close to where the pipe enters the house would be a bonus, wouldn't it? But I take your point :wink: Nick.

I would under normal circumstances, but the "downstream" pipe is lead for about 10 feet before changing to copper, and is buried in the wall behind kitchen units. I think I'll try, but be very careful. If I can't free it, then your suggestion may be the only option. Cheers, Nick. PS...

Thanks for that, it's nice to know how the pros do it 8) Yeah, I read that somewhere else too, but until a few years ago, all the CUs I saw on sale (admittedly in DIY shops) were like this, with no split-load provision. The earth busbar in the consumer unit is linked to the sheath of the supply...

I hope you're right, I suspect this one hasn't been undone since it was installed in about 1936, and access is truely awful, I'll be lucky if I can use an 8" adjustable spanner on it :shock: I think using a blowlamp in situ would be risky becuas of the kitchen cabinets only 3 inches away in...

Good point, but I did - I know (from bitter experience!) that N-E leakage can sometimes trip RCDs too. Your insulation tester suggestion is probably the way to go. I've got a fairly good knowledge of electrical test procedures, so maybe it's time to look on eBay for a Megger or similar - the...

I think you're barking up the right tree there, John, there's probably a small "steady state" fault which only has to be increased slightly by a "transient" one to trip the RCD. But I think all our "watery things" (e.g. kettle, washing machine, dryer) have double-pole switches so shouldn't...

Yep, everything goes through the RCD. That's one reason why I suspected the outside lights, which are Screwfix HiLo PIR types, in other words they're on dimly all night and come up to full brightness when someone approaches. But disconnecting them has made no difference :( To clarify what I...

:idea: I've also got a tap reseating kit with half a dozen different-sized adaptors, which I suppose I could use to gauge the size of the blanking plug required

Thanks for your reply, Mandate, lots of good info there :D I like your blanking plug idea and may well try it. The coin and rubber disc trick is also very clever, but access is SO bad that I coudn't manage it. The other thought I've had is to try the heads off old bath & basin taps as...

Nice idea, but they have a combination boiler with no tanks and no immersion heater :( Nick.

Hello everyone, My parents' house was re-wired about 10 years ago, and has a MK Sentry CU with a 30mA RCD as the main incomer. Until last month, the RCD has only tripped once - when I drilled through a lighting cable causing a N-E short :oops: . But it's now happened about 4 times in the...

I interpreted that as meaning that none of the MCBs in the CU had tripped - but you could be right! :?

Hi, Have you got a copy of the manufacturers' servicing instructions? My Worcester 240RSF one is superb with a load of fault-finding charts in the back. I've never had to resort to calling in an engineer in over 10 years :D Nick.

Hello everyone, I've just moved into a 1930s end-terrace house which has mainly copper plumbing, but an original, lead rising main. The main stopvalve is in the corner of the kitchen, almost at ground level, behind a kitchen unit and has lead pipes entering and leaving it. The kitchen has...

Thanks Kev, I'll keep looking... Brumylad: :shock: not really advisable 'cos the epoxy resin might irritate or kill the nerve of the tooth, and I'd be suprised if it sticks for long. Also, teeth usually chip because they're decayed, and if you just plug the hole, the decay will just...

Thanks, Kev. I presume it's sealed, because it's got a filling loop and pressure gauge like a combi boiler. Nick.