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fair point Owain..I shall put a label on the heater cable right by the 13A plug reading "'remove plug to isolate heater'". anyone..is there a way of telling if a socket is SP or DP in the absence of any marking..except by using a continuity tester between N in and N out. (with the power off!)...

thanks both.. ..>JohnW2..the instructions don't say NOT to use a 13A plug and socket...they just don't refer to it. I just figured that as I have run a portable 2kw heater quite happily from the same socket, before purchasing this unit, that it would be ok. I like the idea that I could as you...

under-plinth/kickplate heater..Winterwarm by Glenn/Dimplex. Have a double socket on ring main available for this..I was going to connect the heater to the socket with a 13A plug (heater is just over 8A?). Nothing else will be permanently plugged into the other socket in the double socket...

just asking for a bit of advice..porcelain tile on osb&backerboard..grouted with mapei ultracolour plus in mid grey..timber edging..what to fill gap (4mm) with? grout?..colour would be identical or silicone (Everbuild "Grey" -25% flexibility factor"?) or caulk/external frame sealant...

update..I just used wd40 initially..and it freed up the mechanism..the spring seems to have plenty of "spring" left. Then I put some 3 in 1 oil on the spindle to help keep it lubricated..works much better..though suspect it may be a regular job! also found this helpful diagram/instructions...

no..I think the spring still appears to work..albeit the whole thing is only operating inconsistently...i.e. sometimes it works fine..sometimes you cannot open the sink plug by pushing it in. How do you mean spring is "gone"? do you mean just a critical (loss of) spring..i.e. still works but...

have looked all over the net..even searched here..to no great advantage. Have (inherited from previous owner) a click-clack basin waste in hand-basin in a shower room which has become "sticky" (i.e. esp when closed!). I have got the chrome cap off (unscrew) and can see the mechanism itself...

thanks again

thanks Burnerman.. 4 sand - 4 aggregate - 1 cement ..yes?

4x4 wooden treated posts..60 cm deep holes dug..have sand, cement, gravel(10mm) & mixer ready to roll. However, I am getting somewhat conflicting advice as to what the best mix is in terms of ratios. I plan to put some gravel chips in the bottom of the hole to sit the base of the posts...

>Xenon..thanks..it's a fair point & I will do. Not trying to be clever but it's an annual job here as it goes..Autumn usually..a right pain as no sooner have you done it it starts building again. Problem is the stuff you can't see! We had a 15 ft. bough fall on another section of the roof...

NW facing roof-line..2 pitches because of extension to original outer wall in room below (ground floor)... job done c.1990. 20"x10" slates and roofing membrane underneath both sets of slates. Lead sheeting used where the pitch of the roof alters (see photo)..underlying the 2 rows of slates...

lead runs

top loader..given to us some years ago..build date c.2000 I think. Has been fine for years apart from the odd belt..but then recently has started being difficult to start. Electrical fault of some type I think as once it is going it washes /spins ok (though I think the wife said it missed the...

washing machine ctrl panel lower side

I never knew this!..mea culpa "As a rule of thumb, the OD of copper is 1/8 inch greater than its ID, the nominal size. For plastic pipe, measure the OD and subtract 3/8 inch. For threaded and cast-iron, subtract 1/4 inch."...