Search results

Try looking on the Oftec web site for technicians near you. You may get lucky on here and have someone to offer but the best way is always a good recommendation from others in your area. Try asking friends who does theirs. Stix.

Not seen or heard anything good about GEM. Used to be Gerkros boilers who went bust but they were no better either. I usually fit Grant boilers and have found them as good as any. Mistral are ok and HRM so long as it's one with the stainless steel condensing heat exchanger. I also service a...

Just read your last post. It is the coil then. Stix.

To check the pump filter turn the oil supply off, then undo the four allen bolts with a 4mm allen key, one on each corner of the pump face plate. Dont mess with the allen plugs on the side of the pump at this stage as one of the ports adjusts the pump pressure which you dont want to do. Also...

If you are getting the reading immediately after lockout then it's probably not the coil. First check there are no more filters in the fuel line. There will be a filter in the fuel pump, if you tell us which burner or pump you have we can help more. You also need to undo the flexi fuel pipe...

A high temp silicone sealant will work such as Dow Corning Plumba flue . Depending on what you are sealing fire cement might also work but does have a tendancy to crumble over time. Stix.

The burner is recirculating it's flue gases. Not sure about your flue sampling point thing but something is happening to cause the burner to draw in it's own flue gas. Probably the seals gone in the flue or something to do with your sample plate. Stix.

I'm fairly sure your valve motor is working and as far as i know the end switches are only in operation when in ch mode. There is no mid position unless you hook it open manually. Your readings on the f/switch sound good also. When opening a hot tap do you hear the click from the f/s and the...

Likely another fault. Check the flow switch is getting power and test for voltage going through it when a hot tap is open.

Doesn't the mv rest in the hot water position ? if so you should get hw but not heating if the motor has failed. It may have jammed open though. Another possibility would be the flow switch. When the op talks of demand is he referring to hw, ch or both ?

Good for you oilman. How about sharing with the OP where he can get get a steel tank at a good price and telling him whether you would bund it or not instead of splitting hairs with me ? I'm sure you know all about it.

Oil is definately cheaper to run than lpg as some of my customers will attest to after changing over. Downside is you will need to buy an oil tank which will almost certainly need to be bunded. Steel tanks have arguably more advantages than plastic but cost a few quid more. Personally i'd go...

Could be a 1/4 inch bsp thread. Maybe. Stix.

And vent the bleed screws on top of the boiler and in the boiler pipework, all visible with the top panel off. I think there are 3 (?) plus the aav which should be left 1/2 to 1 turn open.

As the boiler is capable of from 50,000 btu-90,000 btu and the oil pressure is not known and the desired output is not known, how are we expected to tell you which nozzle to fit ? A .55 should give an output within this range if properly set up. With the info we have this is as much as i can...

By chewing oil do you mean he's used more than usual ? If so tell him it's been a long cold winter and everyone has used more oil than usual. And tell him to get it professionally checked/serviced as this is the only sure way to tell what it's doing and whether it is still capable of meeting...

Not to mention how bl---y awkward it is to remove the burner. And what about getting to the PRV ? The oil connections are a pain (although i have heard this may have been addressed) and so is the slide out control panel. There, i've said it. Stix.

Would agree mostly with Burnerman but check current settings first as pressure may be already much lower than suggested 250psi. For instance i serviced a Trianco the other day running happily on red with a 1 gal nozzle at 9 bar. Also while the tank is low check for sludge and water before refill...

A good starting point is, have you got a good supply of oil to the pump ? What oil pressure do you have ? Have you checked the oil filters ? Have you got 50 volts on the white wire from the motor to control box ?

To check the sunvic, switch on hw only and feel the pipe coming out of the valve which goes to the rads. If it warms up it is faulty and needs replacing. Otherwise it could be an installation fault with the pipework.