Search results

Many thanks for these responses. This was exactly the kind of info I was hoping to get. It's interesting to hear that even somewhat unlikely sources can be worth a try. I'll check out all the online sources suggested too. Ceres: you mention suppliers like T&M. Yesterday the DT Brown 2015...

I'm looking to buy some bare root fruit trees to plant in the winter. Of course there are loads of places online that do these, but I wonder if anyone has any experiences of good/bad places to buy from? Or is it better to try to find somewhere local?

sorry, yes I had assumed OP wanted a base over the whole of the area (so a floor to the greenhouse) but I see now that's probably not right.

I would lay the slabs on a sand and cement mix, on top of the hardcore (see the bits on paving expert about laying slabs). Not sure about the drilling into them, as I haven't done that. One possibility that comes to mind is whether they might crack, especially if you are drilling near an edge.

Personally for a greenhouse I would lay slabs/flags as the base. With slabs you can take your time and make sure you get it right: concrete doesn't tend to wait! And while of course you still need to measure things out, you don't need all the formwork for slabs like you do with concrete.

probably best to take off any vegetation first, before the hardcore. you might want to look at the page on edging here, http://www.pavingexpert.com/edging07.htm as well as the links on the bottom of that page.

depends how uneven it is I think, and what kind of base you want (e.g. concrete, flags, gravel etc). You might be able to level it up with hardcore, using an edging of some kind if necessary, then build your base on that.

It doesn't look like a big area. I would probably clear all the above-ground growth by hand (shears, loppers, strimmer etc) and make a compost heap if it's suitable; if not, or I didn't want a compost heap then get rid in a skip or trips to the dump. Remove any large stones, bricks, rubble...

By which time people on here will say it isn't time to sow a lawn :wink: I have used a Camon rotavator twice on heavy clay (compacted lawn and other bits of land in varying states of cultivation). Both times it produced a fine tilth after a few passes, but did a better job when I took the...

If you don't think a chainsaw would work then I don't see why you would think a handsaw would. Plus that's a big stump to be going at with a handsaw so not much scope for back and forth movement. Personally I would go at it with the sharp end of a mattock and/or try to get the lot out...

After my earlier post found this advice from JohnD: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1519926#1519926 I followed this method using solvent-free Gripfill which I allowed to cure for a few days. All fixings seem nice and secure.

They certainly look like airbricks - or at least the ones I saw coming out of next door when some internal walls were being taken down looked like them. Whether that's what they actually are, I don't know. An electrician complained about them when fitting some sockets elsewhere on the same wall...

Thanks. I am not sure what you mean by spiral plugs. The only spiral things I can seem to find in the likes of Screwfix are fixings for plasterboard.

Hi. What's the best way to make fixings into hollow bricks (the ones like air bricks)? I have a couple of wall brackets to put up to hold guitars - so not a huge weight but not something I would like to see fail. Some people suggest drilling then filling the hole with gripfill, putting in a wall...

Agree completely with Deluks. I recently bought a cheap SDS drill (Parkside, Lidl: about £40) and drilled about 2 dozen holes in masonry in minutes and without breaking a sweat. Much easier than with my Bosch 18V combi drill, which I am generally very happy with and fine for light-ish...

You can get adjustable bungees at the likes of Screwfix. An alternative might be cable ties depending on how often you want to undo it. Or spring clamps/stall clips for the full market stall look.

Have you checked the Ronseal website? If it isn't listed there, presumably it is no longer available. Ronseal themselves might be able to advise on which product (if anything) it's turned into.

The answer to question 1 is www.pavingexpert.com . And it's there you'll find answers to questions 2 to 7 8)

Can't the contractor give possible plausible explanations? I'd want one of those before he attempted a remedy for fear that he'll make it worse. The pattern of staining looks to me a lot like the sample on here of spot bedding (rather than full mortar bed) underneath porous slabs...

You can get an end grain treatment from the likes of B&Q and Screwfix. I think they both sell Ronseal which I have used and seems to be fine. Don't be surprised when it looks blue on application: it soon fades to match other pressure treated timber.