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Hello all. My brilliant high quality Glow Worm combi is playing up again. :( This time, the hot water is running hot, then going cold, then back to hot again after a min or two. Any suggestions of where I should start looking, as cold showers loose their appeal in October.

Sorted. Removed the 3 screws, and the top comes off the siphon. Turns out it's a Dauntless siphon for a wellbottom (rubber) cistern. New diaphragms are available online, they're the circular ones, with a circular hole in them that fits over the siphon tube in the cistern. Many thanks.

My shop has a very old high-level cistern, made of rubber I think. The supply and flush pipes are lead. The diaphragm is split, as the chain takes a lot of pulling to flush. Most siphons need to be completely removed to replace the diphragm, but I don't really want to disturb the lead flush...

Thanks for your help. Yes, I have TRVs, but on pump overrun. The system is 10 years old, but it still runs with the old boiler that was there before. Its an Ideal Concord WRS, almost 30 years old I think.

A friend came around today to help me change the pump on my vented S-plan heating system, which is 10 years old. He knows a little about heating, and thought it strange that there was no bypass on the pipework. Do I need one, and what could happen if one isn't fitted?

My Potterton stopped producing hot water completely earlier on. Hot water is now coming from the taps, but only if the taps are full on. If I turn the taps down a bit, to approx half, the water runs cold and the burner light on the boiler goes out. Does anyone have any ideas. The pressure is...

That explains why the one I'm about to replace stained the bl***y carpet last time I drained down! Thanks very much for the info.

Thanks for the quick reply Daneski. Do you know if they do 22mm ends?

As the title really. You can buy type A or type B drain off cocks for central heating, etc. What's the difference? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Valves/MT+Cock+Type+A+15mm+Plain+Shank/d20/sd2696/p71396...

Are there any air vents on my Worcester 24i junior that I can close, to allow me to fit a new TRV without draining down? On my brother's Broag combi, we can close the air vent on the pump and the AAV on the top of the boiler, and change a valve without draining. Is this possible with the...

I need to fit a lead-loc. I see that they are available in 6, 7, 8 and 9 lb sizes. How do I know what size I need? Also, can you get lead-locs with a 22mm end, they all seem to be 15mm?

Rightly or wrongly modern boilers, especially combis, come in for criticism from some quarters. Heat only boilers are a bit more technical these days, what with electronics and condensing. It isn't unusual to hear of heat only boilers still going strong after thirty years, like my Concord...

What about potential damage to the boiler. What effect will killing the flow until the water heats up have on the boiler? Won't it increase limescale formation within the boiler in hard water areas?

The valve is a standard Honeywell 2 port, normally closed model. Approx 15 years old. Thanks

I know what the fault is, the 2 port has failed. Didn't realise that you could buy the head seperately. Just wanted to know how you diagnose whether its the head or the actual valve part thats at fault. Would save me a bit of work if I could just change the head, but changing the whole unit...

Thanks Tony Not sure what this means. Are you saying that I should close rad valves, so that I don't need to drain down so much water? Also, Where do I look at the water, by taking some out of the system drain-off perhaps? How do i determine whether its the head or the valve part thats...

My 30 year old conventional vented system with Concord WRS boiler works perfectly, except that I need to replace the 2 port valve. As this will require a drain down, something that the system has only had once or twice in its life, I think its worth adding a system cleaner before I drain down...

I replaced my Fluidmaster bottom entry torbeck with an Opella one, because it thumped when closing. The new Opella one does the same thing! :cry: Is there a cistern valve that closes quietly, as the thump can be heard over the house? Screwfix do an Armitage Shanks one, is this any better?

Who is the manufacturer? Do you have the tel. no? I have the same problem, and would like one of these modifications. Thanks