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Are you using the RCD as a 'main switch' to switch all this? If so therein lies the problem, if you really want one point of switching use the (I presume) mcb's in the DB individually rather than the RCD, hopefully that should be OK

As headline I've been tasked with trying to retrofit in-tumescent strips into door frames, anyone got any clever ideas as to the corners and bottoms of legs where the router won't reach? :roll:

The suggestion of only using one core of the ring would eliminate load balancing problems but wouldn't it produce induction problems and careful consideration as to where cables pass through metal objects such as backboxes? The 'crossed' (as per r1r2 verification) suggestion would avoid that...

Somehow I can't quite believe that BAS :D

Read your oven instructions carefully! They usually have a TOTAL rating of about 3.4 but when you read the manual the oven is say 2.2 and grill 1.2 BUT you can't USUALLY have both oven and grill on at the same time. If they can be on at the same time, as said above a dedicated radial required.

If the contact was sufficient to melt the screw the internal damage to the cable will be significant due to copper melting at 300-400 degrees lower than steel. It is possible that the reduction in it's current carrying capacity is diminished to less than 1/10th of it's proper capacity. DON'T RUN...

just a guess but 22-23 millibars(above atmospheric) is the pressure in your gas main after the meter I believe, so 1.02264 would be a good average?

from uswitch "1.02264 takes into account the changes in the volume of gas based on temperature and pressure." Is that what you wanted?

I think he could have meant to have said Labia not Libia :oops:

The gas fire even if YOU don't use it needs a ventilation brick of sorts. If you don't use it remove it. If there are no other coal/gas appliances and the boiler is of balanced/fanned flue variety I see no reason why the holes shouldn't be bricked up permanently inside and out. You will of...

Hi danechip, I got it if no-one else did....irritating little sod isn't he?

Gotta admire him for his tenacity!!!!!! Spending a whole year researching just one problem! I guess he's very busy on other forums though

Obviously a free Koi carp with every carcase! :lol:

Having fitted literally hundreds of ovens, although the manufacturer often state the max demand to be (say) 3.45 kw, when you read the manual it is oven 2.2kw and grill 1.25kw, BUT VERY RARELY can you have both on at the same time. The manufacturers requirements for a 16 amp BREAKER are just...

If you are looking for an off the shelf solution you could google ecologic. They do all sorts of stuff that should fit your requirements

I'm beginning to understand why BAS is oft so curt, please read properly before you reply "but the earth connection at the CU is not even 10mm, possibly as small as 4mm." not the section between meter and cutout

OK BAS E,C and F but depends really on the highest Zs. To the OP Are you sure that you haven't got an upstairs ring with drop-down spurs to downstairs sockets? in which case upstairs ring simples....downstairs ring NOT!!!

There are dozens (LITERALLY) of external causes of rcd tripping, nearly all involve a neutral fault of some kind, if this is definitely at fairly 'preset' times (and you've eliminated your heating)I would think almost certainly a small local industrial unit is the cause by the times you mention.

Suspect the ad is wrong not BAS, who has ever seen 35mm FLEX? :D

With the appropriate fuse/mcb off/pulled you can test your earth connection at the box in the pic by testing earth-NEUTRAL, this should give you a VERY LOW continuity reading if on a TNS or TNCS supply, if on a TT supply the reading may be vastly higher, possibly a few hundred ohms. See the...