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I've been through a lot of **** recently with Valspar and smelly paint. I got paid compensation to rectify the problem and they recommended Zinnser BIN to seal in the bad paint and smell and repaint in your desired colour afterwards. Worth a try in this situation.

Listen to your wife Bob. You've nothing to worry about.

Then its use as a towel warmer becomes useless with a TRV as once the thermostat reaches temperature your towel warmer turns off and your towels go cold. From my experience they're very hot to touch but don't radiate heat anywhere near as much as a radiator and if used as intended to heat...

Don't do it! Towel rails, apart from looking nice are pretty darn useless. Your bathroom may be warm now but remove that rad and bring on winter and I guarantee you'll freeze ya *******s off. I did the same. New suite, towel rail etc. 12 months later I swapped the towel rail for a bog standard...

Just silicone over the top. If the grout cracks in the future the silicone will be flexible enough to still hide the cracks.

Have a search for Mapei silicone it comes it many colours to match grout.

Something else to ponder is whether you may need to double up your rafters around the velux windows once your openings are formed and how you plan on doing that. It'll also need insulating and a good vapour barrier with ventilation above insulation as it doesn't look like you have a breather...

The rafters are fixed to the joists and in turn the joists are stopping the roof spreading. Remove the joists and your roof pushes out as you have no wall plate or seat cut. You need a wall plate on the internal skin along with straps then the rafters need birds mouthing onto this to stop the...

I'd say you'd need some sort of wall plate to birds mouth the vaulted timbers on as currently I presume they're fixed to your flat joists. Remove the flat joists alone and what's stopping the roof from pushing out.

The best job would be to remove the lot and reboard. Second best I'd cut some circles say 6" x 6" out your old board exposing the block below. Try to avoid the current dabs, give it a tap before you cut. These circles now allow a good fixing onto the block work below for your new boards using...

:D Goodnight

If I'm a plank you must be a fish as you bite good. I hope the declaring your income tax comment wasn't to personal. You crack on Dan. You could have made £50 in the time it took to write that.

Assuming you'd declare all your income at the end of the year yes, yes you'd be deducted tax on that to like the rest of us. :LOL:

Noooo. A real plumber won't use speedfit. Its only for DIY. They hate the stuff. Bodge job. Ugly fittings. Won't last. Copper is proper. Right guys... sorry I'm fishing here. DIY Speedfit must have had a knock on effect to plumbers which is why I said they hate the stuff but waters one of those...

:LOL: £350 a day for a plumber. No wonder you guys hate speed fit so much.

£530 labour only give or take a couple lengths of copper to adjust existing pipework is extortionate. All radiators are to be fitted within the current pipe works dimensions and access under floorboards is available to adjust pipes accordingly. I reckon I could diy that in a day. Never mind...

On that basis I'd give the 10mm JG inserts I linked a try before any. (y)

If plastic it should already have an insert otherwise you've been lucky it's not leaked over the years. There's a few different pipe brands which do their own inserts the I'm not sure if they're all the same diameter or not. If you can see a length of the pipe on show it should state the...

Is the microbore copper or plastic? If the microbore is copper it won't require an insert. You may get away with reusing the old olive and nut to fit the new fitting otherwise the old olive will need removing first. If the microbore is plastic it will require a standard plastic insert not the...

Wow, you should be very proud of that, looks a great effort.