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Common sense firstly, make sure its not a supporting wall. Try removing a couple bricks to begin with using a lump hammer and bolster. Drilling several holes around the bricks mortar then working with the hammer and bolster will get you going. Once you have a few removed it should get easier as...

If you really want to go the insulated plasterboard route enough of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h will hold a 30kg board. Drill a 6mm hole, with a good impact driver send em' home. There will a good 40-45mm fixing into the block...

A great link cjard posted in another thread, http://www.secondsandco.co.uk/. Its seconds insulation board, not used before. Well worth considering and they deliver. As far as fixing you've not got much choice but to buy a good masonry bit and get drilling. Use easy drive screws (They dont...

So long as your concrete is 4" with steel it doesn't have to be perfectly flat as your screed will be the finished floor level. So long as its something like. I was referring to 100mm foil backed kingspan, xtratherm or similar. Along with an 1" insulation around the perimiter building control...

Build your brickwork up to the desired DPC height. You want 100mm insulation, 100mm concrete and if you desire a 65mm screed although you can do it thinner. So measure from your DPC height 265mm down, fill your hardcore to that level when compacted, scatter sand to remove any sharp edges, lay...

From what I gather they've tried to weather proof the gap between the two extensions but not spoken to you about it first? Its in your best interests to keep the gap weather proofed one way or another as I agree that given the chance if water gets into the 100mm gap your potentially open to...

Ideally you want at least 3 courses above the ground level to ensure your timbers stay dry. In a similar fashion to a wall plate you'd fix this to the brick wall, you can use restraint straps but with it only being potentially 3 courses your not getting much restraint. I'd be tempted to glue...

Hi folks, Thanks for your time. Im currently at first fix stage of our extension which up till now has been passed off by Building Control. Next stage of inspection is pre plasterboard I presume to see electrics, plumbing etc. As far as Im aware the normal process is a part P installer will...

Agree with the others in essence they've taken an ugly trip hazard of a french door threshold and created a low threshold which is much better. We did the same on our extension just we stihl sawed the bricks below the french doors in half to lower the door that way. EDIT: Taking a closer look...

Shoddy workmanship aside I cant see much wrong. If as you say its classed as a conservatory building regulations are not required and he has every right to build up to the boundary as you have. You may want to ask him if he plans on weather proofing the gap between the two buildings there...

As mentioned a long radius bend is needed at the bottom of the stack. Try to keep 90 bends to a minimum if any. Another thing to consider is having the manhole / inspection chamber so close to the bottom of the stack you'll find when all the nasty stuff flies down your soil stack it'll explode...

You want an F2 durability rated brick below DPC which usually has a water absorption of below 7%. You can get some nice facing brick which meet the F2 durability. I used Ibstock Etruria for my extension above and below DPC and they look great.

Whats a couple days extra work in breaking up the old slab and footings for peace of mind in knowing you've prepared the footings and slab correctly for the required build? Do the job right first time never have to worry about it again. Plus if your involving building control I doubt they'll...

Hi guys, Thanks for your time. Just recently had an extension finished, its 6 meters across by 4 meters out. The pitch is 15 degrees with 2 velux windows fitted along with the correct flashing kit, insulation collar and cloaking and the transverse drainage gutter. Cross battened, breathable...

The bricks wont be a problem they're non-combustible and when fired will have withstood temperatures way higher than your log burning stove could produce. The coating on the white wall could be a problem if its plasterboard (Not the pink fire rated stuff) or a scratch coat and plaster that may...

If your getting a mortgage your lender may not loan the money until the damp problem is resolved. However if they agree to lend you the money anyways or its a outright purchase I would be more inclined to do your ideas and seeing how things go than taking plaster back, tanking, injecting etc...

I'd personally remove all paintwork, replace any badly spalled brick, repoint any areas which need repointing and apply Stormdry to the brickwork. Have a search for it, its a brilliant little product and will protect the external skin of your house from freeze/thaw and spalling along with...

Hi guys, thanks for the reply's you have confirmed my frustrations. The top 2" was mixed wet not like a screed mix will that give it more structural integrity as such? The extension floor is not an extension of the kitchen per say rather a separate room we will be using as a kitchen so the...

Hi guys, Thanks for your time. Currently having a kitchen extension built 6m x 4m. Builder just recently poured the concrete slab. Before he did building control passed the insulation etc and away they went. As far as I was aware the usual process is 4" concrete with steel followed by 2"...

Hi guys, Thanks for your time and help. Renovated my bathroom, last step is the toilet. It's a 1940's house with a cast iron soil pipe. I cut this back so it's nearly flush with the wall. I've measured the pipe inside diameter and it's exactly 90mm. You would think okay, buy a 90mm...