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Which is utterly irrelevant when considering someone talking about retrofitting insulation to a floor. It would appear that both your reading comprehension and understanding of the laws of thermodynamics is lacking. I said that rigid foam is not worth it compared to mineral wool because the...

A suspended timber floor is never going to be airtight. By far the biggest heat loss through a suspended timber floor is through conduction through the floor itself and then forced convection carrying the heat away from the underfloor space. In this respect 100mm of mineral wool will and...

Except heat loss from a room is not 100% radiative. In fact it is not even close. In particular given that hotter gases are less dense which means that they do rise will always result in more heat being lost from a room through the ceiling than through the walls and floor. There is a reason...

Personally if using mineral wool/fibreglass I would use a thickness that matched my joists. So if my joists are 100mm deep I would use 100mm mineral wool etc. That way the chicken wire/netting you are using to hold it in place will keep it against the floor boards.

If you wish to stop it coming back get some copper wire and run it just below the ridge. The rain will cause it to corrode over time forming small amounts of copper sulphate which will then helpfully kill any moss and algae that tries to grow.

Or you could just screw some 12mm OSB or plywood to one or both sides before fitting the plasterboard. Makes hanging things on the wall dead easy as you can just use a screw and put it anywhere. If you also fill the wall with sound insulation it will have the feel of a solid wall.

I always thought they where a Scottish thing. At least they are way commoner in Scotland than the rest of the U.K. in my experience. Even then the skirting and architrave (or facing as they call it in Scotland) are supposed to match or be coordinated.

The point is even if they get plastered completely over, you can easily knock the skim coat off them and the back box is then nice and clean. It makes the job easier for the plaster, and it makes it easier for oneself because you don't have to spend time digging the plaster out the back box...

Yes, but making sure that it is tight together improves the insulation.

Because it is easier and you get a better result if you can just skim over the box as though it was not there. Protecting it from being filled in with plaster saves a lot of time afterwards.

What I thought was neat was the pipe insulation which has an adhesive seal to hold it onto the pipe. Shame it is not more common place in the U.K.

Has anyone used these http://www.screwfix.com/p/2-gang-back-box-protector-pack-of-50/50297 I have been cutting bits of corrugated cardboard to size, but it is a right faff, so precut ones would be handy.

Days gone by this was common practice. You wall papered the room in a none vinyl paper and then did the window reveals in gloss paint which survives damp and condensation better. I bet it was a lead based paint as well. It is probably easier just to strip the paint off all together. I had a...

I am not sure that using a paint containing fungicides in a food preparation area is a terribly sensible idea. Personally I would not do it.

I am looking at a mixer tap for a basin and it is available in 25mm and 35mm cartridge sizes. What is the advantage if any of the larger cartridge size? Basically I am not sure why a tap would be offered in different cartridge sizes. Specifically this is the tap in question...

It will reduce the impedance, though anyone claiming it is noticeable is delusional unless the switch is in very poor condition. That said a specific circuit for a HiFi could have a noticeable effect in reducing mains born interference. However it would require that you have really rubbish HiFi...

I would second that recommendation. You can get for ~£10 50W equivalent LED GU10 replacements that consume only 5W. They really are just as good as the halogens they replace. I have just replaced the six in my kitchen with these and am very happy...

Obviously the more insulation the better. Probably the first question is how long do you expect to stay at the current property? Clearly the longer you stay the more value you will gain from the work. All the main manufactures do plasterboard that is bonded to varying thicknesses of...

As the original poster says the flat roof is joined to the main house roof which is presumably pitched. As such there is probably a gap between the main roof and the flat roof into which you could in theory push insulation. My parent's house is like this. The reality is that you will struggle...

This is complete rubbish. Heat does not rise. I am frankly sick of seeing this utter nonsense being put out there by people who clearly have no clue how thermodynamics work. Hot gasses are less dense that cold ones so they tend to rise. However and this is VERY important convection aka hot...