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I would personally use a router with a newish/new sharp bit. Use a bit of melamine faced chipboard for a straight edge and away you go. It's what is used for making joins on worksurface which is basically the same stuff.

Like I said B&Q use Häfele hinges in their IT range of kitchens. Mounting plates at 0mm for the slide on hinges as B&Q provide are available here. http://comptools.co.uk/store/cruciform-mounting-plate-p-8145.html They have all the hinges and lots of other stuff that can go into a kitchen.

There is a third option that I have employed, and is cheaper than LoftZone, possibly cheaper than stilts, and less weight than extra timber. You also loose less height in your loft. Basically you buy 100mm celotex/kingspan cut it into strips, feed into the loft and just lay over the joists...

The B&Q carcass is more likely to be 15mm than 18mm. I would look to replace the hinges with ones designed for 15mm carcasses. More specifically the mounting plates for the hinges come in different depths for different thicknesses of carcasses, and they are quite cheap. See what make of hinge...

You can buy 1A,2A,7A and 10A BS1362 fuses are from the likes of RS and Farnell and TLC-direct.

I have put a couple of 5A sockets on the lighting circuit in my kitchen to feed under cabinet task lighting. However wiring them up today it occurred to me that of course that lighting circuits are protected by a 6A MCB these days rather than a 5A fuse. In theory therefore a fault could cause...

You could always knock a few bricks out the dwarf walls to retain air movement. Alternatively you could drill a series of 25mm holes through the bricks, a SDS+ drill will make light work of it. A "cheap" way of filling the gaps between floorboards is to make paper mache out of old...

The statistics show that having mains powered interconnected smoke alarms in your house dramatically reduce the death rate in the event of a fire. Consequently if you are "rewiring" a house with all the associated disruption, not fitting mains powered smoke alarms would be short sighted penny...

Note the ones that MK make can be fitted with a red plastic thing that stops the fan isolation switch being operated. The red plastic thing can also be fitted with a padlock to stop someone removing it. Both the red plastic thing and the padlock where provided with the fan isolation switch I...

Here is my personal tip. A strong magnet will hold to any screw or nail heads that where used to hold the plasterboard to the studs. I find the ones fresh out of an old hard drive are the best, strong enough to bite your fingers off if you are not careful, stick to the nails/screws well and are...

Thing is the inline enclosure is more expensive than the quiet fan, at which point you might as well buy the quiet fan. The 250m^3/h is really really quiet. Gets noisier when you put ducting and a grill on, but there is no way on earth you could hear the fan itself when it is in a loft space.

TLC-direct do some really quiet fans. I fitted one before Christmas for my sister and she is very pleased with it. It was quiet expensive at £90 but she is really pleased with it. It also shifts enough air to stop the bathroom steaming up when having a shower...

Just had my meter changed last week, and the meter guy shook his head and replaced the tails between the meter and the cutout as they where both "red". I had never noticed as they had grey over the top. He did have to go back out to his van however to get the replacement tails.

The problem with that is mine say that they are not to be connected to a lighting circuit with a fluorescent fitting. As everyone is being pushed to use CFL's that basically rules out the lighting circuit. I went for a separate circuit shared with the front door bell so I at least stand a...

APC and others do automatic transfer switches that are design for handling single powered IT equipment in racks. http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=AP7721 Never actually used one because it is generally cheaper to buy the kit with redundant power...

It is Worcestershire Bosch Junior 28i. However just spotted the note in the manual that says 300mm to door air vent or opening window.

What is the minimum distance I need to have between the flue for my combi boiler and the vent for a cooker hood?

You do realize that this is a quick route to a broken neck?

For £38,000 I would be tempted to make small corner safe and live in it for six months, then claim the relief on the CLI. Heck offer it rent free to someone who is homeless then you don't have to live in it. However you then go onto say you are going to be demolishing 50% of the original...

From that planning portal website If the replacement is of the same size as the original building then it looks like you should be exempt. I would imagine that the person at the council has "forgot" this.