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The measurement from the wall to the right of the 1000 shows as 1231 so the gap cant be 290. As foxhole says, get the door post in the correct position for a 600 door and then push back. The 290 may then be 231?

I don't think it was recommended for insulation, just to stop and cold/damp coming through the bottom of the steel and messing up the plaster/paint. The tile backer was to sit between the steel and the plasterboard. It was only a small part of a lintel that would have touched the plasterboard.

Someone may correct me but I was told tile backer board can be used between the steel and plasterboard to prevent cold bridging?

Could try holding the bit with some mole grips

I've had it in the garage now and it turned out to be a stuck caliper in the end. Weird because it wasn't overheating or smelling at all but the brakes were binding and causing the judder. Thanks for everyones help.

Same way the two big vans got there I guess

Hi, I've just ran a diagnostics and get the below error on the diagnostics Bypass flap air cleaner valve - open circuit. Code P101600 and the below error on the dash popped up when ticking over Stabilisation programme fault Not sure if something else now causing the juddering.

Thanks. Drives perfectly for 10 mins and no lights at all. Then just starts juddering at low speeds and then again at higher speed. Gear changes have always been perfectly fine. No knocking or thumping. Mechanic has mentioned a DMF to solid swap which would work out cheaper. He's not checked...

Thanks Mottie. I'm thinking clutch related too. Would it still jerk when the engine isn't running. I had noticed that when I released the clutch I would get a rattle at a certain bite point too. Shifting gears is still as usual. I see a clutch kit doesn't include a flywheel. Is it best to too...

Hi. Looking for a bit of help if possible Have an Audi A5 2.0 tdi 2011 and it's started to judder and shake quite a lot when at around 2000 revs. If I dip the clutch and increase revs the juddering reduces. The clutch operation wise seems fine. I turned the engine off and coasted down a small...

When i built the extension BC told me that the wall joining the house should be mortared, pointed at an angle and then filled with a silicone as a new wall joining an old wall will more than likely move, cracking the mortar

He means that when the slot is vertical (as in your image) it should be stopping any water entering the hose. If you now remove the hose and water is passing through the isolator it will be a faulty isolator

You can get shiny black versions of the stainless trim which may work. Would give it a cleaner edge. Once you've got adhesive on they are going to be 5mm proud

Whewn i did metros i cut the bevel off the full tile so they all sat level. so you have a half tile sitting about a 4/5 tile if that makes sense. All depends how you can space everything though

Diamond core bits could be worth a try and not shake around as much

Thanks, mine have been ok and not even looked at the outside of the build since the drains were done and structure wise it's finished :) The hob will still be within the main house kitchen so it's gonna be a job to add an external duct to the side of the house

I had thought that but I'm doing all the knock through extension first an then there is another build that is within the same application but doing that later on. Just wondered if they would even look as the kitchen is there at the moment anyway. I could get this part all checked and then add...

Hi, Will building control check if I have a kitchen extractor fan if not part of a new extension I have the kitchen at the end of the house and am knocking though that gable end into a new extension. The kitchen will be redone but still within the main house. Will BC check for an extractor fan...

May be worth using insulated board across the full width to prevent cold bridging.

I think as long as you can prove you have an mot booked if stopped you can drive to an mot station. edit - didn't see earlier reply!