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Many thanks for your help, much appreciated.

Many thanks, that makes sense. So cut the old wire a few inches from the block, cut the wire from the new motor, connect them together and tuck them inside the fitting? The new motor came with two each of these. See photo. Excuse my ignorance but how exactly do I join the wires using these...

Thanks both for your help. I'd like to replace the synchron motor. One of its connecting wires goes into the furthest hole in the green block (see photo) - but it doesn't look like regular screws holding it in. So I can't see how to remove the old wire and insert the new. Any advice please...

A loud buzzing noise was coming from our three-way port and the radiators stopped giving out heat, though occasionally two come back on a little bit, but usually the boiler doesn't fire up and the radiators stay cold. I switched everything off and tried to move the lever on the port to manual...

Got you, thanks for that.

Thanks for all your answers. Have decided to replace TRVs, and would like your thoughts on the following : When we drained the system the water from the hose was clear. When we bled the radiators (after refilling) the water from the bleed valves on some radiators (not all of them) was black...

Ok sorry for being thick but where do you think the blockage might be and what do you suggest to clear it.

Thanks for that, but not sure what you mean by a blocked hole as a continuous stream of water comes out when the valve is bled.

Many thanks for all the replies, much appreciated as ever. According to the Fernox website Fernox 3 cleaner "removes sludge, scale and debris" so the plan was to run the system with the cleaner in it for a week, drain down again and refill with an inhibitor added. If the cleaner did not cure...

We have three radiators on our CH system which remain cold. They all have TRVs, two of the radiators heat up when the valves are tapped. The third doesn't heat up at all. The system is heated by a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30 CDI. Before we replace the valves we want to put Fernox 3 in to see...

Thanks to everyone - more leverage on the cap didn't stop the leak, rubber seal possibly chewed up. Plumber coming tomorrow so case closed.

Thanks Ian - I'm probably more relaxed about using more force as we can partially drain central heating system (as above) if something shears.. What would be the right tool? I have a couple of pipe wrenches which would give me a lot more leverage than pliers.

Many thanks, that is the one I looked at. Chance the plumber may come friday or saturday morning, failing that I'll give it a go. Thanks again.

Again thanks, yes I got a bit confused. The manual bleed valve I see is available from Screwfix. Looks like it has to be soldered on though, is that right?

Thanks for your reply. I have contacted my usual plumber but he won't be here til next week and I wouldn't mind getting the leak sorted. I would like to get the little valve cap off to see if there's a rubber washer that's displaced, or failing that, get a new one, but I have to drain down the...

Two problems now. I opened the small valve with pliers (though forgot to switch everything off) and bled it. Unfortunately when I screw it back on with the pliers as tight as I can it still leaks. I didn't remove the cap so I doubt it's cross-threaded. I have a grip wrench but I don't know...

Thanks for coming back. I bled the

The pipes on the left as we look do not go into the boiler - two horizontal pipes on the right do, the upper one is lukewarm and comes from the diverter valve, and of course the pipe exiting the boiler at top middle. Thanks