Search results

Your not wrong Noseall, a lot of companies get the fitters to build the base or pay builders very poor money and dont give a fig what they do to make a living, I know cos I've worked for some! The last lot I spoke to, Britelite in Strood Kent, offered me £150 a day for me and a lad, use my own...

Yes, sorry about that!

Depends what hinges you have, flag or butt.. Flag hinges will have a small plastic bung that covers an allen headed screw that will move the door back and forward, butt hinges have cross headed screws to adjust but nowhere near as much as the flag type hinge. Having said all that it...

Theres me banging on about plastic and it may well be a wooden/compsite/ali door! Hope it sorts it out, if you can silicone I'd remove the selant, repoint the reveal and reseal when set.

The other glass has a coating to stop solar gain, if they are (the company that supplies the glass) any good it should be all in for the roof, comes tinted blue, bronze or clear WELL worth having.. soft coat, argon filled, swiss spacer etc etc From the Saint Gobain site.. SGG BIOCLEAN...

Its a tough one without seeing the site.. what the subsoil is like.. how deep the drains are etc.. Cheapest for a solid method would be concrete strips. maybe with some small reinforcing running length ways to spread the weight, you might get away with one jumbo of ballast plus cement, few...

Hello Isis Depending on who you get to do the work, I'd budget for between £1000-£1500 for the build. For longevity I'd say pitched roof all day long, follow the rafters to give an impression of height and put a couple of skylight/velux type windows in. Party wall agreements aside...

I'd go with this for a temp fix, 1 roll of 10m and pins £150, job done within an hour or two, no digging, no mess. http://www.pitchcare.com/shop/fencing-netting-and-mesh/grassprotecta-grass-protection-mesh.html?gclid=COnYxKCik6UCFYVA4wodsGdIOQ

Bout right then.. and just for info, conny roofs are going up in leaps and bounds at the minute so I'd say get it done quick to avoid any more prices hikes and the new VAT rate. I bet the roof alone is near 2k, extra base work to build up to dpc, I'm presuming steps too, it all adds up...

An extra bit of plastic, like a drip bead on the face of the door, outside at the bottom, there to shed water off the door and over the theshold. If you mean a black rubber bubble/flipper gasket or black 'Q-lon' vinyl plastic gasket like a draught excluder then yes.

True, it would be far cheaper with poly roof, cheapo (shallow) foundations, no insulation, standard glass, externally glazed frames etc thats very cold in the winter and bloody hot in the summer BUT if you want a conservatory that can be used all year round then its gonna cost more.. simples.

As its a front door I'll take it as opening in? so the frame will have a lip towards the front and flat towards the back, hence water coming in, you'll need to dig out the drainage slots to allow the water to drain away freely, you should be able to see them in the corner part of the profile, a...

Building conservatories is my main line of work and I'm with Ronny here, basic cost can be found by doing the meterage by £1000 for a ball park figure, so nearer 10k for me.

Alot of newer double glazing with argon, soft coat and warm edge spacer are better than a gimmick 'triple glazed' unit.

Crickey, I would have thought hes had it done by now :P

You can get 'aerated' 7.3n celcons (hi-sevens)... we have been building an extension and have had to use these under load bearing steels.

That is a whopping bit of glass.. would have to be safety glass now IIRC?. Now if it is already safety glass then a good double glazing repairer could cut and re seal the unit, should he feel the need..

Is it a standard size? If you want cheap and cheerful try B&Qs not the best in the world but does the job.

A quick fix could be if you have ramps in the profile, put one at the bottom of where your opening (master) door leaf closes, as near to the bolted on joining stile as poss, this would then lift your door as it closes, this is only a temp fix, you really would need to toe and heel it as the...

Usual thing to do is hit it (the barrel) with a hammer, straight down, its s tricky thing to get right but does work, the barrel snaps at the screw and you can then open the door and replace, or drill out just below the key slot and then turn with a srewdriver. Replacement barrels should be...