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No problem.

I hope I didnt come across as having a pop Richard, I've been on and off this forum for a fews years and have to say your posts are some of the most informed answers I've seen and you never patronise so I'll say sorry if you took offence and if it was me. Back to the thread! There is a...

NO thats right, just go in to the house, look at the wall, sharp intake of breath, think of a number then double it and do everything for susage and mash, loadsamoney! Look at my wad!

The way I do it is to scratch coat, with scars running horizontally, top coat (next day)laid on with a steel trowel level/flatish to the eye, leave for a bit testing every while with a sponge, when ready, (you'll know) circular action rubbing out the trowel marks.. I dont use a feather...

Its not the finding out who it is... its the shame, ooo the shame.

Thats about the size of it mate, remove all the cross head screws, leave any hex heads, these are normally the ones holding the locks and other bits in place and pull the lock out. I'd give it a good oil up first, just spray it in all the holes where the locks come out.

Was refering to the above post, I anlso used to build connys and make my own double glazed units, I dealt with Express Toughening in Essex and they didnt do any thing over 2 1/2 metres long. It was a few years ago now mind... And one big window would look rubbish!

:lol:

I personally would never use waterproofer in the scratch coat, end up waiting for hours for the top coat to go off!

Crikey, your owning up to damaging and replacing (with the wrong pipe) a sewer?... on a public forum! Get a BCO round, they are not monsters, they understand that accidents happen and ask him/her how best to fix the thing. Unless your doing the extension on the sly.....

If your taking it all up and putting a new screed down I would re-inforce it with a light mesh and fibres.. The paper may be building paper which you can still get hold of. I've never seen a floor like that so cant comment on how or why it was done like that, sorry.

Its not about the thickness between the rafters, the under the rafters insulation is to stop cold bridging thru the timber (as mad as it sounds) Dry lining is tapered edge plasterboard finished with joint tape and filler then sanded, as opposed to skimming, regardless of how its fixed. Well...

Marshman made a lot of suggestions! :D I'd still go with a more natural product that is actually in harmony with whats there and as Marshman says will breathe with the rest of the building materials used. Marshman wrote: You could put it back like it was using lime putty mortar and skim...

The floats not an easy option unless the render is dead flat.. its why a sponge is used.. You could sponge it, let it set a bit then finish with a float.

Its on the first floor?

Have you tried a bit of oil, WD40 sprayed into the workings?

Toughened?

As Richard says, I dont use anything unless it really needs it, the reason being that the silicone gets pushed onto the frame and becomes very thin, which looks awful and peels off. Pratice to get a good even bead without 'fingering' (ooer)

No worries, good luck

No Richard, its not, lime motars should not (in my book) have any cement in them, a cement render can make use of lime to improve the mix. http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/cement/cement.htm Plenty of suppliers online...