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Guarantee its light weight plaster.

Top pic, the nylon spacers are to form a drainage slot.

If they do I've never heard of it. 70mm then 'D' mould trim or 45 arch, much like you have already. Its a bugger to use but avoid silicone on plastic to plastic, use Stelmax small gap filler. You can get it in a tooth paste sized tube.

Are you talking a bow bay conversion? I.e. you have a flat window and want a bay instead? I would have thought one long day or two days work so approx £300-400.

By far the best, in my experience is Rehau, without doubt. If you want noise reduction think about having laminated on one side of the unit and possibly argon with soft coat low e and 'super spacer'. No problems with keeping the concrete cill, just have the frames face drained. I'm sure...

Nowt wrong with more load bearing, why cut? leave it. as you say with more bearing. I wouldnt cut a Catnic down, just my opinion.

In answer to (2) what about curtain walling? And (3) Yes

Rough cast is a rough finish render, as opposed to smooth and dashed is with stones or spa chippings throwm at the surface when still wet. Well thats my take on it.....

Similar to what I said on LCGB mate :wink:

As wms says you can get between 10-20mm on most PVCu frames, 65mm would break in to the re-inforcing chamber and weaken the frame. So for the sake of a couple of hundered quid I would say get a door made to measure. Idiot lip. I like that :D

Yep, as long as you prep the blocks first. Yes, deffo use an aqua panel or similar as wall tiling is never fully water proof. Light weight plasters and plaster board absorb water like its in a drought!

If its hot poured bitumen I would get some heat on it first before the method Noseall has put forward to get rid of the worse, I wouldnt use an aggressive method that might damage the brickwork. A hot air gun would melt it and then mop up with a rag. Then try the spirit and course brush.

I've gone on to rendering (sand and cement) bathroom walls to get shot of lightweight plasters, more trouble than they are worth. If its just patches in light weight then ok use gyproc based plasters, maybe a one coat to make it easier, but as said, you do need to seal the new plaster.

Yes, very bad. To conform with Building Regs you should have a gallows bracket or even a R.S.J. from middle supporting wall to outside wall supporting the breast. As for the purlin, oh my.... hope its not been re-roofed with concrete tiles... Looks like a typical case of, I'm not paying...

Theres no gas in double glazing unless its Argon filled (which will dissipate in time) and you cant re gas it, well not viably anyway. If yours is 'first generation' it aint got gas in there, nor is it a vaccum. If there is a mist inside the unit its knackered, the desiccant in the spacer bar...

6" x 6" trimmers, wtf! Sure its not 6" x 2" or maybe 6" x 4"(150mm x 50mm/150mm x 100mm). A trimmer travels at 90 degrees to a joist/rafter, said joists/rafters need to be doubled.. i.e. an extra joist/rafter needs to be fixed next to it and any joists/rafters that rest on the trimmer...

Woody, I think you may have confused polycarbonate with corrugated sheeting. Poly can be cut with a fine tooth saw, a jig saw or what I use is a circular saw with a very fine tooth and negative rake to avoid too much 'bite' which stops it shattering.

IIRC its was sometime early 80's

Is it a northern thing, not seen it down here?

I use fibres in thin screeds, most BMs stock them and I've seen them in B&Qs, dont know about that grano stuff...... :oops: