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Call me old fashioned but on the odd occasions I'm asked to do a bath I use plumbers mait. Bugger to get off your hands but never had a problem with it.

That doesn't look like an easy job, as said above. Assuming that cast iron pipe is going out to an external stack, I think you're going to have to replace the pipe going out through the wall and change the level and angle in order to connect successfully to a modern toilet.

One thing to consider, seeing as their supply is fed from your service head, is that if their earth is poor it probably means yours is too. Something else to bring up with th DNO when they call. But yes, as a wider point, next door should have its own supply separate to yours, and you should...

If you are intent on changing it and seeing as you asked for the cabling to accommodate a 10kw shower (but do have it verified that it is actually 10mm2 cable), I haven't found any better than this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mira-sport-max-with-airboost-white-10-8kw-manual-electric-shower/87467...

I agree - much better to keep the existing socket and install an additional one. One can never have too many sockets.

Hard to tell without being there, but to me the outgoing tails look roughly two sizes smaller than the incomers. If the incomers are 25 then 10mm2 out might not be a problem depending on the fuse size, but if the incomers are 16 then it would have to be under a fusing size commonly used by the...

That's a Henley Series 7 - I seem to remember that the fuse carrier has to be removed in order to unlatch the cover over the Neutral/Earth terminal block to the right (left in your pic as the cutout is upside down). The outgoing tails look a bit weedy - those will surely need replacing. Maybe...

If the house is actually fed from the sub in the garden that is. I know of a pub round here that has a sub abutting its back wall but is actually fed from another sub about 250m away.

You should locate where it comes in from outside and joint there. I wouldn't be happy having a plastic pipe joint buried in an internal concrete floor.

Personally, I think there's nothing nicer looking than the Crabtree Platinum range in black nickel. They are bloody expensive, but can be got cheaper on ebay etc. Bear in mind though (and this applies to all flat plate accessories, not just Crabtree), that despite what they say in the...

In no way does that present any type of hazard from what we can see there - it just doesn't look very tidy. It's aesthetically lacking as electrical installation goes, as the previous poster suggested, but otherwise there's nothing specifically wrong or dangerous about exposed insulated and...

Flexis are awful - they're an unnecessary weak point in a plumbing installation, and are used only because they save time at the initial installation. I regard them as a slapdash bodge job. In the situation you have there, you don't need them - I would change it all to copper or plastic.

It is a thermal store. I had exactly the same one with a similar setup in one of my previous properties. High pressure hot water, it worked quite well, particularly as I was in a soft water area.

Hager is pretty good in that respect. The one I've had problems with in this sort of situation is Crabtree.

Not as well as couplers do.

I use conduit couplers and bushes when I want two or more accessories together - it ensures they're all square in relation to each other. Nothing worse aesthetically than two sockets/switches etc. right next to each other at different levels. It also gives sufficient spacing for some flat plate...

The outer hessian serving has come away and the steel tape armour is pretty rusted but the important part of the cable that serves as the earth connection, the lead sheath, is under all that. It looks bad, but a lot of PILCSTA (Paper Insulated Lead Covered Steel Tape Armoured) cable under the...

(Assuming the toothbrush chargers in question aren't in a bathroom or near a sink) I wouldn't generally recommend these but they might suit your purpose well: https://www.gardensite.co.uk/christmas/premier-christmas-4-way-plug-in-adapter.htm Just don't be tempted to plug any kind of heater...

To @jonbey I'd say the best and easiest solution for you is to stick with what you have and replace your existing hot water tank with a larger capacity one. Much more straightforward solution than replacing existing showers with electric ones. If you do go for an electric shower, there's...

You'd be better off posting this in Electrics UK