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It would appear that your blockage has just happened. It could be "soft" muck from the tank, as already said, at the tee connection. So, before cutting out and replacing try this: Have a look at FAQ, Boiler and Central Heating number 12 This post from Chris works! I've used it a couple of...

What ever you do, don't go to NPower.

Is your old Hive the correct type for this boiler.

That's a good point you make there Ian. If they do, then should you expect them to do the same for the existing hot water cylinder?

In 1973ish, in my first house, 3 bed 1913 build, I installed a 7 rad single piped heating system, gas boiler and hot water cylinder. A couple of very important points for this type of system, as I recall, are to ensure the pipes are properly deburred and to use swept elbows, and the correct...

Please don't shoot the messenger .

Hope your right. It still could be a fault with the gas ignition if this almighty bang returns.

You need to add the make and model of the boiler + the programmer. Do you have a hot water cylinder?

Don't like the sound of that, it could be gas ignition within the boiler . I would get the boiler looked at asap

The Echo Dot is able to work with Hive and is a good saving over the large Echo.

you could add Alexa for them. You could write a list of heating control words for both hot water and central heating.....

The Reciver as I read it, can be used to switch on the Hot water heating and the Heating. I then expect it would control the heating to the hot water cylinder until the cylinder stat is satisfied and the Hive room thermosate, ( best you double check this ) to control the temperature of both if...

My indirect cylinder has a drain point on the cold feed, that's what I was thinking of. Will drain most from the cylinder.

Sorry, you are correct John.

As I said, "You could drain the cold tank and then drain the hot water cylinder "

The hot water cylinder should have a balance valve, I would shut it. You could drain the cold header tank and then drain the hot water cylinder. Turn the cylinder stat to min. Open the hot taps. Check that the FE tank is feed from the main, should be. The above depends on your layout.

Just to be clear, water pouring from the boiler? Just the fill loop? Isolate the the water leak, switch off the power supply to your boiler and await your service engineer.

Start by looking at the heat loss in this new room/rooms. Check to see if your boiler is able to heat this extra load. Where can you connect to the flow / return

Give WT Knowles a call and ask.

That's a good looking Job, is it yours Dan. I'm only a DIYer but appreciate the time it takes to plan the layout then execute the job leaving it accessible for future service/maintenance.