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That's great then, I didnt want to leave a couple of inches of wall to make up the 150mm. I am removing 2.5-metres of wall though, so hopefully Duvet's figures wont apply.

I've been digging around the internet & everything I've read about lintels says the end bearing should be at least 150mm. Is that not correct, or does it depend on what the lintel is holding up?

Hi all. I want to remove part of a block wall which doesn't extend upstairs, but it does have the upstairs floor joists resting on it. The joists are at 90degrees to the wall. The sketch below shows (hopefully) what I want to do, the gap in the living room wall is what I will knock down &...

Work

Thanks for the help & advice, it's appreciated. I think I'd better get a roofer in though I have more problems than I realised. The tile above one of the holes is broken, I cant really see the other hole properly to see if any tiles around it are damaged. I'm asuming rain has rotted the felt or...

Hi all. I have a couple of holes about the size of a beer-mat in the under-tile felt in my loft. They seem to have been caused by the felt rotting which is a bit strange because the rest of the felt feels sound. Anyway what I want to find out is can I put a patch over the holes from inside...

It was good info Frank&earle, I knew some of it but some I didn't I'm not overly bothered about "when it comes to selling the house" because I have no plans to move. A lad I work with moved house last week & he was asked if he had done any electrical work, or structrual work in the house in...

I'm worried about the 10% bit. :wink:

Cheers woody, that's what I'll do & I have no intention of cutting corners or doing a bodge job. My trade is I'm a sheet metal worker so I'm used to working with my hands & I'm more then cabable of doing this type of work. My problem (like a lot of people on this forum) is knowing the correct...

Thanks for all that info, but you've put me off doing it now, Frank&earle. :( I don't mind the cost of doing the job properly, or to regs, but that creates another problem. The amount of insulation needed for the floor would give me little headroom afterwards. Insulating the walls to the...

Ok D1nhs, thanks for that. My current valve isn't thermostatic & nobody has been injured yet (kids grown up) so it's a feature I'm not too bothered about. A slight change of subject, I'm going to fit a pump to the shower to increase performance. I have a salamander "ct50 twin" which is...

Now I've had a better chance to have a look around the web I've found another which I'm going to get instead of the hudson reed. The hudson reed valve would have entailed a bit of work for me to fit but this one is the same centres as my existing bar type valve & will hopefuly be a straight...

Thanks for the help lads. I had a look on the tapshop site & that helix valve is £152.70 now. There was another on that site I liked the look of & then I found it £30 cheaper at "bathroomstuff.com." It certainly pays to shop around.

I've noticed a lot of Triton for sale on Ebay are they any good? I'm curious about what makes one valve better then another. I'd have thought being as they were all mainly made from brass there wouldn't be a lot of difference between a Mira & a cheaper make.

I'm looking to replace my mixer valve & have been told that Mira are the best. Are they much better then other makes or are you just paying extra for the name? Thanks. Dave.

Thanks for that info woody. It will be difficult to pack it all with solid boards because although the joists are 5"x2" I have to fix battens to take out the 3" fall in the roof, in order to get a level ceiling. So the voids will be 5" at one end & 8" the other end. A mix of solid insulation &...

So can the voids between the beams be fully filled with celotex or Kingspan & not bother with ventilation? Every website I've looked at said the voids should be cross ventilated above the insulation, below the roof deck. Apart from what Woody said about packing the insulation in I've never...

I'd seen the mushroom type vents but I woulld need one for each void formed by plasterboarding the roof. I also thought a row of those would look pretty ugly. The ubbink ventilator in your link looks like my only option. I've found similar by other companies, but they all seem to fix the same...