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thought so :cry:

dont think so, it was a "homer". Will the cable not be ok once we cut away the damaged bit and rejoin?

Hi. My joiner accidently fired a slim nail right through my Sky TV cable with a nail gun (the thick cable with the outer meshed core and the solid inner core) whilst attaching new skirting boards to the wall (the cable was to be hidden behind these boards). The nail has went right through the...

brilliant mate. At least i know what may be causing it now. Thanks very much for all your help tonight, very helpful indeed. Will attempt to sort it this week, better head off now i can hear the wife nagging ! thanks again mate!

do you mean the whole MV box AND the brass pipework behind it (the nipple thing i tested with the pliars)?

one last thing, is the MV easy to replace? Are we just talking about replacing the box i pulled off earlier with the power cable attached? (Switch off electricity and replace the unit?) do B&Q sell these? if so how much, roughly?

do you mean the motorized valve is faulty? how easy to remove airlock in cylinder coil? PS i've just switched the boiler switch from HIGH to LOW Setting (on front of boiler) and the water appears to be getting hot now. Would this have any bearing on what we discussed? many thanks

seems like the only 2 that were starting to go hot were the ones closest to the HW tank upsatirs. All downstairs are cold.

yes, the one upstairs are starting to get hot

valve to the right of rad is v hot (left hand one only warm) return out of bottom of cylinder is only warm, possibly cooling down from earlier (top one is VERY hot)

will sit and wait to see if rads get hot with just HW on. Can i add, the MV (round metal cover) was still very hot when i went to put cover back on there. Is this normal?

top back on. Yes, boiler does fire up with just HW on....

ok, done it. It only turns around 1/4 of the way (if that). Any more clues? thanks again mate

got it off. I take it i just poke a screwdriver in the back where it would meet the spindle and see if it moves freely?

Right, i tested it with a helping hand there.... Switched both ON. Then, turned off CH. The small plastic switch moved (think it was up) Then, turned on CH. The small plastic switch moved (think it was down) Then, turned off HW. The small plastic switch moved inwards and upwards...

i got the plastic cover off but there is nothing resembling a spindle mate. There is a circular metal thing but it is enclosed/sealed, around 40mm diameter and is still hot to the touch. Anything else i can check? thanks

i will do. Can you tell me, what are the 2 black plastic "switches" on it? (One on the top, the other at the side). What do they do? Is this easy fixed? Do i need to drain the system again? Many thanks again. Mike

thanks mate, where do i locate this and what does it look like? Is this the small plastic box unit near the pump up beside the HW tank?

Hi. I have a conventional gas fired Boiler/CH system: Boiler: Ideal Elan 2, around 17 y/o. Horstmann H425 programmer. Hot water storage tank. Last week i had my system drained as i accidently damaged a radiator pipe when lifting it off. This was quickly fixed. Then, after...

I switched the CH switch off and the boiler sounds normal now. Radiators all getting back to normal. Its only with the CH switch "On" that the "jet landing" noise occurs. Is this normal? thanks again.