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So if all the other rads are shut off, does this one get hot at all? Have you made sure the TRV and lockshield on the problem rad are fully open when you test? I think you are opening the other lockshields too far and possibly robbing heat from this rad. Try to get this rad hot on its own...

What speed is the pump set to? Maybe if you speed it up you will get better circulation through these rads.

Just wondering how much benefit you are expecting from this work? Have you considered all other options regarding keeping your porch warm before resorting to this? Just thinking about draughty door, windows, roof insulation, wall insulation, level of heating etc etc.

Sounds like a plan.

I think I would use backerboard as there is a possibility of some moisture working its way in from the outside.

Hard to be certain but most probably NOT ok. More detail about your boiler, hot water cylinder (if you have one), controls and location of these items relative to one another.

My house was built 1930's and has a couple of minor cracks just like yours. They haven't moved in the 30+ years I have lived there. Stop fretting about it and just monitor over the next few years. You have nothing to worry about.

Are you intending to work on cars in there? Just wondering as I would have thought the point loading on a chipboard floor (when jacking for example) would be marginal at best. Over time I can't see it lasting long and I certainly wouldn't be confident about working under any car supported on...

In my view there is no substitute for proper under-unit fluorescent lighting, giving good illumination of the worksurfaces. If you have wall units with light pelmet that can accommodate them, they are your best option.

Reading the regs http://www.hse.gov.uk/legionnaires/ it seems to focus on business premises (often under the control of landlords) rather than domestic tenanted properties, where it would be virtually impossible to control how domestic tenants stored heated water. Yet more H&S ar*e covering.

Hard to give a precise answer. Much depends on the level of insulation you have and things like double-glazing, draughts, other ventilation - too many variables. I have experimented with keeping heating on constant and it did cost marginally more, but comfort level was much better than when...

As far as filling the hole is concerned, it would depend, to some extent, on what finish you need outside. If facing brick, then ideally obtain a couple of matching bricks, cut them around the duct that you will install for the dryer, then neatly mortar the bricks in place. If you have...

Minor settlement, nothing more.

My preference is always to use separate adhesive and grout. I have tried the 'combined' types before and always found them lacking in grip. Like a lot of multi-use products they tend to be a compromise.

The pointing (if you can call it that) on that ridge is appalling. Is that where the water penetration is occurring? Nothing looks out of place anywhere else on that side of the roof.

New battery??

Probably depends where you buy them. Got mine from Homebase a few years ago so based my comments on those.

Always worth testing tools before using them in anger. With torque settings from 1 - 16 I would be surprised if you even needed 10 on a softwood frame, especially as you had pilot holes as well.

Glad you got it sorted but have to say, if you were driving screws at max torque then I'm not surprised you were having problems. I only use max torque when using the cordless for drilling, but have never needed that amount of 'twist' to hang a door.