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Yes that's right. I understand you wanting to match the existing hearth spacings but you could easily loose a mm or 2 without it being obvious I would have thought, plus it will help solve the small centre tile, as the smaller spacing will make a larger tile. Whichever way you go it seems...

Your assumptions so far seem reasonable. You also need to consider how the roof structure is supported by those walls before you take up your hammer.

The alternative would be to reduce your spacing from 10mm which would gain a considerable amount over that distance, then insert a cut-down centre tile. Why such a big spacing?

Jut bear in mind it could be gas as it wasn't unusual in older houses to have gas in the bathroom for a water heater. Tracing it back may be the only way to confirm. The only plus side is that you should only need to trace in straight lines to follow the pipe run.

Sounds straightforward enough. CH 'on' terminal to stat, return from stat to trigger boiler & pump. Presumably your existing setup is a direct feed from CH 'on' to the boiler & pump? Don't quite understand why you would be reluctant to fit a room stat which would allow you to have better...

Can you see the brick bond in the loft? That would give you more of a clue about the thickness of the party wall.

How about a couple of pictures?

The main purpose of those locks is to prevent the door being lifted off the runner to gain entry. Therefore you need to find a sturdy location such that they would hinder any such attempts. I fitted the same type of locks many years ago but have a substantial timber frame which I secured the...

That all sounds a bit Jackanory to me :lol:

Do exactly as you did before. Unless you are breathing in dust by grinding them off (which you aren't) then there is no problem with just scrapping them up.

Where is the return (outlet as your call it) connected to? You don't mention that in your post. The reason the rad is cold at the top is probably trapped air so has not been bled properly, BUT it could be due to incorrect pipework, hence my question above. As for the valve tail - maybe...

What's on the 2.5m wall adjacent to the (I think) external door? Would be a far better balance of heat to put a rad there I would have thought? There appear to be 2 stars on your diagram so got a little confused with your explanation.

That pretty much sums it up then. Start looking for that blockage. You may end up having to cut a section of pipe out unless you can find a way to force the blockage out. My own system had a considerable build-up of sludge at the point where the cold feed entered the system pipework. With the...

If only 10mm could you not use slightly larger spacers to take out the 10mm? An additional 1mm on the spacers might remove the need for the strip perhaps?

Did he carry out any cleaning/flushing of the system before commissioning the new boiler? If not then a blocked feed is high on the list of suspects along with the fact that the rest of the system would benefit from flushing.

Have you checked the door itself isn't slightly bowed? Some pictures might help too.

If the header tank is filling up with hot water then you have 'pumping over'. Can be a number of causes - blocked cold feed where it joins into the system; sludge/blockage elsewhere; pump speed too high; incorrect pipework. If the pump is running dry yet the header tank is full then my first...

What tiles are you using and what will the exposed edges look like without any edging strip? my suggestion would be to work from the outer edges into the centre and cut the centre tile down to fit. So long as it is symmetrical I think it would look alright and did it myself when I tiled a...

Any chance of a couple of pics? Some oven door seals just press into place. If you can take a pic of the old seal and the door recess you might get more suggestions.

It'll end up a complete lash-up if you try fitting the carpet before the skirting.