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Packing the old tails with PTFE would allow you to position the drain-offs correctly, it just takes a few extra turns and care when tightening.

Probably they never learnt to shut doors quietly :lol:

Use the tails from the old rads as they are matched to your existing valves. Simples.

You might even want to paint them between 2) and 3) so not a good idea to have carpet down then.

Possibly but I can't see enough of your pipework to give advice on that. You should be able to check by tracing the flow and return from the boiler and seeing where they are linked via any sort of valve.

Do you mean door stops? Never a good idea to slam doors! If so door stops need to be fitted after the door has been fitted to ensure correct fit of the door. Really all of that ought to be done before any carpet is fitted in my view.

The bypass circuit will be a pipe from the flow to the return after the pump but before the 3-port valve. It will have some sort of valve in the pipe, might be a manual gate valve or similar, but it should not be fully closed otherwise the overrun will not work correctly. Conversely if it is set...

I can't help with the league table but my advice would be to get out and visit places like Currys, John Lewis and some of the other independents to get a 'feel' for the various manufacturers. You will notice that some are 'badge engineered' using similar casings but cheaper internals to help...

Assuming all you controls/valves are functioning correctly then the switching on and off of the boiler sounds perfectly ok to me. I have a Suprima as well so am familiar with normal operation. Boiler fires and heats the water - boiler stat cuts off at the set point. As the heated water...

1 vote for leaving it as is.

Worth considering that you could make it look 10 times worse by hacking the offending tile off to reposition it. Not an easy job removing just one tile, especially as the basin is in the way too.

No inner sleeve and outer casing are all one moulding so no other access as far as I am aware.

In spite of the install being relatively simple in pure physical terms, you will need to certificate to ensure you are fully covered as a landlord renting out a property. If you were to install yourself and something went wrong in the future, you would be fully liable for damages/injuries etc.

Yes it will do. The problem as I see it, is that the 'tube inside a tube' design doesn't allow for much force under normal flow conditions, so the likelihood of a build-up of muck is higher as the outlet flow doesn't have a direct 'push' from the water above (makes sense to me anyway!)...

This waste has a sleeve inside the body of the waste and the outlet cannot be seen or accessed from above OR below, so no good trying to get underneath it as there is nothing to see. The principle is that the inner sleeve is the runoff from the shower so the water runs down the inner sleeve...

If you can get some assistance then hold the end of the hose in the waste and hold a cloth/towel around it to help seal it. Then get your assistant to turn the hose on. With luck the full force will be directed down the drain rather than back out over you! The challenge is that the blockage...

The outlet to the drain is actually on the side of this waste fitting - I know as I have exactly the same type in my shower, so you won't find it easy to stick anything down like wire coathanger etc. How long have you left the sink unblocker chemicals down there for? I find it needs about 4...

Nice uplighter! :lol: :roll:

Quite right, but to be honest I've never bothered to investigate as I just delete manually every so often. Plus you never know when you'll need a bit of Viagra! :lol:

No - it was definitely the Transit.