Search results

Any time, its just to see if its the gap within the valve thats creating the whoosing noise

No idea what what MARA is ? is it a trading company? a supplier of candle charts or what. Tried to get my head around Notch 7 trading for dummied video but can't even work out what TradeNation site is all about. I assume all your charts you put up come from sites you have accounts with?

Try fully opening the lockshield valve? Take note of how far its opened at the moment so if it upsets the balancing of the system you can always turn it back down to the original setting.

Did you ever bottom this out or did you just end up getting a new boiler

Never had a bad DIY injury as such just the normal cuts, bangs and scatches as opposed to football/ rugby fractures but even though I was aware(ish) of cement burns totally ignored the factor when I was helping son to lay,spread/ tamp/trowel concrete slab until a several hours later legs began...

Typical 1st splurge due to force of mains pressure within the feed pipe that then reduces to whatever it does due to a constriction within the supply pipe. Possible cause of all your woes.?

Exactly!

Replaced a radiator and bled it, if that's your analysis of the situation you sound like cowboys with no idea i.e. was it a pressurise system that needed re pressurisation or a gravity fed system, did you just isolate the old and fit the new radiator.

Bang boiler stat up to 6 and see if that works in the short term but sounds like its time for a new boiler

And does this happen straight away or when the system has been running for a while and all the radiators are hot. Try putting boiler stat up a notch. I assume one of the radiators does not have a TRV setting so flow through the system is not blocked off completely at some point in the heating cycle

And has it made a discernible difference?

Reminds me of perps who always add more solder to yorkshire fittings :unsure:

A winner!!

Or he is lucky and immersion spins round due to initial torsional force, winners and losers

Surely as soon as you apply any force on a nut you are inducing torque???

yes

I would drill 1/2" hole in the middle of the sprung coving, 1" from the end and then shoot coving adhesive into it so it fills in the back and also crosses over to the adjacent piece, then push the sprung bit back into place and secure. Securing is the hard bit but a couple of nails up against...

Trying to squirt anything into a zero mm gap aint going to hold

AS Morq says, but does not look like you have the upward movement available but if you could you would be advised to use some support bricks for the radiator to rest on when hinged downwards to prevent strain on the feed pipes. Other option is to place bungs in the feed and expansion pipes so...

Yes he asked a long question