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I want a small shed, about 4 feet high and 3foot wide - the width of the paving slab base. What I want to put in it doesn't quite fit unless I put the bricks on their edge, i.e. with the frog facing inside the shed. Is there any real problem with this? It only has to last a few years but is...

Thanks "hard-work" I didn't know there was such a thing as a blending valve. I intended on just putting an isolation valve between the feed and return and adjusting it manually until the return temperature is at 60'C but not sure how this will operate when the pool warms up - it should be ok...

Yes, I have a copy of the boiler manual now and it specifically states that lower temperatures will increase corrosion.

Ah, that answers the question perfectly - it fits with my assumptions but answers a problem I hadn't considered. As it happens I had a similar problem with condensation on a different system and figured a high exhaust temperature would fix it but I hadn't linked the two. Where is the...

I've always just assumed that the colder the return to the boiler the more efficient the boiler would be (i.e. greater differential so heat transfer through manifold is faster). But I've come across direct evidence to the contrary (e.g. boiler recommends minimum 60 degree return, 'hearth' temp...

I have greatly improved my design to avoid my issues and incorporate suggestions from here. I have moved the stairs to the hallway to avoid the fire issue altogether and it gives slightly more space in the hallway (this also avoid the need to cut through a major beam in the house which is a...

Thanks for your help folks! I'll look into sprinklers and see if I can treat the dining area with the stairs as a kind of "gallery area". Obviously I'll get an architect's input as they will be drawing up the structural plans. I have no plans to sell it and apart from a few minor changes it...

That's the kind of advice I was looking for. Never heard of automist but I think a protected escape route can be used for fire regs. I didn't know you had an alternative to council inspectors? Thanks will look into it. P.S. on the first floor, the bottom centre room and top right room are...

I'm working out ideas for an extension to my 3 bed semi. Trying to see what the alternatives are and how I can get the most for my money. My ideal option is a bit pricey but by far the best, however I'm not sure it fits with fire regulations. I plan on having 3 stories but I'm not certain if...

I can confirm it makes no difference. I have an old 'port' which I took apart and checked. The port is totally symmetrical except for the labels and port A is identical to port B. My actuator is pointing correctly and the key on the stem fits into the actuator (not the port) so the system...

With power to the valve off the boiler heats hot water and with the valve manually activated it does water and central heating. The only other position is just central heating or neither and I'm sure neither would have damaged the pump by now.

My valve is the opposite way around to most diagrams with A feeding the hot water and B feeding the central heating. The valve actuator is the right way around so I figure it makes no difference but just checking first.

Spring return HSA3 Pump Wilo RS50 Digistat SCR room thermostat Tank thermostat (older than me) 3-way valve, think it is 3 position

I've traced everything through as best I can (without removing floor boards etc) and this is what it seems to be wired like. It doesn't quite make sense, perhaps the valve is the wrong way around? I'm not totally sure where the lose wire went but it did work before. (also, water tank...

Only 1 zone as far as I'm aware. Wireless Thermostat, non-combi boiler, hot water tank (no emersion), pump, 3 way valve. That is it as far as I'm aware. Hot water still works and I've manually switched the valve to run the heating aswell until I fix it.

Only 1 zone as far as I'm aware. Wireless Thermostat, non-combi boiler, hot water tank (no emersion), pump, 3 way valve. That is it as far as I'm aware. Hot water still works and I've manually switched the valve to run the heating aswell until I fix it.

I agree, a faulty controller but I still need to know where to put the loose wire when I replace it.

I've gone through and traced the wires. I'm pretty sure the 2 pairs of twin & earth that go off where I can't see the sleeve are just power for the pump etc.

I'll check through it all and draw a diagram. Out of interest, the 4 terminals for HW on/off and CH on/off. Which are inputs from the thermostat to the Controller and which outputs to the boiler, pump and valve etc. It would make working things out easier if I knew what I was looking at.

My heating is on the blink, hot water is ok and central heating is ok but both together causes Honeywell unit to flick off and on repeatedly. I took the units of (with the intention of fitting a Hive unit recently on offer at Screwfix) but it looks like the problem is probably just a loose...