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B&Q do Rossini bathrooms, try ringing the bathroom dept and asking them.

You want to put the top and bottom hinges in the same place as the old one's were so you don't have to chisel more out of you door frame, I'd put the third in the middle of the two. A good quality set of two hinges would hold the 22kg btw. Gobo.

The first 6000 could of been done by someone who has a tendency to wheel spin, thus reduce the life of the tires considerably. Did you see/know whether they were new when you bought the car? Did the mechanic check the tracking?

The reason for cross battening is just to allow for the insulation and wiring as an add on, you can chop grooves into the joists if you feel the insulation isn't going to be heavily compacted, just remember to mark on the boards as you lay them where the wires are to prevent screwing into them...

lol. Thanks Tictac. Hollywood if you have bothered to read all this cur-fuffle please can I re-direct you back to Richard C's post up at the top somewhere.....

I'm sorry Tictac having looked it was for the op to which I now Know is original poster?, my mistake but I do think that how you replied was a little harsh. I've used pva based products for sealing for quite sometime without any problems. Thankfully I don't take things like that to heart...

educate or bully? I was quite reasonable tbh, and maybe Tictacs post was totally accurate. All I asked was a question and got bitten. ('How would the wall become wet?') This is a public forum and people can give and take advise as they please, not get it forced down there throats.

This was a reply to tictac, Thanks for the reply Richard. Well Richard didn't say that he said 'wet area' giving the impression of a shower/wet room. Not that it would become wet from the cement based adhesive. I did also ask him btw, and as for "as Richard has already told you prime...

Rich, How would the wall become wet btw? If waters getting behind tiles surely it hasn't been tiled with the correct materials in the first place? Whether or not the pva remains water soluble the problem would lie with the grout and seals? I understand it could be a problem in a wet room but a...

If there's no issue now with movement of the wall you wouldn't need to use a flexible, but put piece of mind you might want to. Definitely seal the wall with a pva mix before tiling. Bal grout is a good choice.

If there's lots of insulation and you planning on laying over the top, check your not crushing it too much as it could put a lot of pressure on you ceiling. Best thing to do is to raise batten it, which by your description your kind off planning to do. but first, I'd check there going to...

Has the plasterboard come away from a stud wall? or from a solid wall its been dot&dab onto?

You'll need to put an foam underlay between the lino and the laminate, you don't need to remove them as the laminate will be floating and not adhered to the lino. Gobs

It does say.....So without raising floor, buying thicker planks or replacing architrave....... Also, the last architrave I fitted was £11 a metre (solid oak). Thus Jono may have a dilemma if he paid similar prices for his and it isn't bog standard pine. [/b]

Nice job, always good to get brownie points!

You really want to get as good a finish a possible, depending how ruff they are already you could do 60 then 100 to finish off, you want to concentrate on getting any end grain areas as smooth as possible. When you first apply oil it will look a bit patchy but after the second coat it will even...