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Hey. I was just wondering what it is the normal course of action when plumbing in water taps with a belfast sink? Because the sink sits on top of a solid unit, there isnt any access to the underside of the work surface behind it, where the tap is mounted. What do you do when/ if the tap...

Thanks, Ive heard that people use a silicone between the sink and top of the cabinet because the bottoms of these sinks are not actually flat, so the sink rocks slightly from front to back. I'd imagine this would be slightly alleviated if the sink was slightly raised up so that the underside...

Im coming to the end of the long drawn out kitchen refurb Ive been doing (at last) - and will soon be installing the worktops. Since Im using a Belfast sink, the tap sits in the work surface rather than the sink. Im guessing this would mean that I would need to bolt the tap onto the...

Ive just had a new gas cooker delivered (bit not installed yet as kitchen aint quite done). Ive been told by t Cogri chap that I need to have a stability plate bolted to the floor. However, Ive not found any on the internet, and Im wondering if this is a legal requirement? Obviously we need...

Sorry - thought there'd be some chippies/ kitchen fitters hanging around in wood working/ carpentry. Didnt notice it when I posted here,

Hey skenk, Thanks for your advice. Id say the angle between the right and far wall is probably about 93 degrees or there abouts, so its not a huge amount. I was thinking of maybe battening the units on the far wall by just 1 or 2 cm or so, to reduce the angle a bit, but not completely to 90, as...

Im fitting an IKEA kitchen into my 2.2m by 3.2m kitchen at the moment. I had thought the room was square, however it appears that it may not be. If you stand in the doorway of the kitchen, the layout is a basic U shape, with cabinets/ cooker on the right, sink at the end opposite you, draws...

THanks for the reply. In answer to your question, with the right hand wall cabinets flush against the wall, if I lay a straight batten along the rear edge of the corner cabinet, it gains about 4cm over the length of about a metre - so its a fair bit. I'm really not keen to replaster the wall...

Im fitting an IKEA kitchen into my 2.2m by 3.2m kitchen at the moment. I had thought the room was square, however it appears that it may not be. If you stand in the doorway of the kitchen, the layout is a basic U shape, with cabinets/ cooker on the right, sink at the end opposite you...

Apologoes if this is in the wrong forum - when installing a washing machine under a worksurface, and between two cabinets - how much clearance should I allow horizontally between the sides of the machine and the adjacent cabinets? Its a fairly decent machine so doesnt vibrate too much, but...

Hi, Whats the best route for a waste pipe to go from a washing machine to the drain? Should I install a stand pipe, or is it ok for the pipe to go out of the washing machine, dive under some kitchen cupboards, and then up into the waste on the kitchen sink? Thanks

alright - point taken.......... :?

I was gonna get a 30" door, but I cant find any suppliers anywhere who sell doors less than 198cm tall.

4 or 5 cm not a good idea by the sounds of it then??

Ive got a rotten external door and frame that I need to replace - problem is the current door is only 187cm high, and all standard doors seem to be about 198cm high. I dont think I could fit a larger door in the space. Is it in-adviseable to plane down a door by this mich, say if I took 4 or...

Im planning to put in electric underfloor heating in my kitchen. Just read through the installation notes, and the implication is that I should not lay cable under areas of floor where washing machine, fridge, dishwasher etc are supposed to be going. Now, this would be fine, except that...

I'll try and send you some pics later today. Bit gutted if I could have avoided this by priming first, Ive got more than enough 131. You dont think its worth filling the holes with something before doing the dpm then?

I'd find it pretty laughable if it was much more than that - it should only take an hour at the very most - cut one bit of pipe, add elbow, one straight bit, another elbow, plus the straight up to the bayonet fitting.....how hard can it be?

Tech department at Ball told me not to bother priming the concrete, just damp it down first is all they said is needed for the 900 DPM-prep. Theres quite a few pin holes, strangely not uniformly distributed across the floor - mainly in certain areas. I noticed the other night when I spilt...

Ive got to do some skimming, and put some hardcoat around into some socket chases next week in my kitchen. How long should I leave it before thinking about putting up new wall cabinets etc? Also - how long before painting? Cheers