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Use an 12v-240 invertor

rs stll do avos

no you cant use that batt - you will damage the electronics as they wont be rated for the increased charge current and longer time plus more heat etc etc

If you get supplied with a couple of sets of internal tails - then these link out from the switch to the rcd - then the rcd to the top rail busbar to the rcd side of the mcbs, the switch connectors get linked to the bus bar going to the non rcd protected mcbs - if you understand all that LOL :P...

If you have the mcbs and the rcd then the bus bar gets cut to the required length by your spark. There should be two seperate neutral connections and one earth bar also

you are under a morale obligation to report a possibly dangerous situation.

the rpm is usually stamped on a plate on the alternator and gives the o/p at a specified rpm.

Yeah - and you tend to loose interest once youve hit the side of your thumb with the hammer even once, let alone twice! - Nice pretty blue thumb afterwards though :P

I wonder if hes borrowed a neutral somewhere? - Wernt you the guy that posted the other day regarding wiring the switch up for the outside light? - If you are (I think you said you were that person in your above post) - where did you get the NEUTRAL feed to the light fitting from??

If you meter between live and earth - it will show live, as the meter is finding live through live and neutral through the earth - that is normal?? Your question needs to be better explained my friend ?!? :?:

Some of those dichloric fittings need to have presure applied and twist out as they have a lug on the end of the pins and a "9" shape recepticle socket in the fitting.

Quote:- "If you don't provide an inlet your fan can't do its job properly" Exactly what I tell the women! :D

I have been to a job with something similar, I found the following:- Washing m/c with a leak dripping water inside. and also a Undercupboard light in the kitchen wired to the lighting circuit with a borrowed neautral to a plug socket. It wasnt enough to trip the rcd all the time, but...

I think youve answered your own question then! :wink:

Its quite possible if your shower is a high power i.e. 10.5 or 11.5kw then you are overloading the 6mm cable and the fuse/breaker in the cu. If your shower is a high power one you need 10mm cable and a bigger breaker/fuse, if the shower is one of those 11.8kw triton things then even the DP...

Its clear to me from your description of the facts, that there is indeed a connector block hidden out of site inside the ceiling void that the wires you can see go back to. Ideally you need to gain access to this connector as it will contain most probably the correct earth connector also.

could be a local cb'er - look for large vertical ariels in your road.

You still should have an 3P isolator switch

Yep - Neon in switch is failing, not really a fault. And the breaker in the consumer unit could be overloaded/ too lower value for shower.

This sounds to me still like a bad case of RFI - radio frequency Interference. This can be caused by a local CB'er using an illegal amplifier called a "burner" which pushes their transmission power way beyond legal levels. It could be a Radio Ham - although these guys generally know what...