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If you are looking at a Solid Floor do not put it on underlay, you have no guarantee and you will be asking for problems. I would recommend Engineered or Multiply, boards are a lot more stable and you will be fully guaranteed floating on underlay

Hope it is not to late, you can use a portnailer or Tongue Tite screws to fix the wood through the tongue, also I would recommend a flexible wood floor adhesive. I f you apply this in a Zig Zag formation just to give it the extra fixing as chipboard is quite soft and sometimes dosen't take the...

If you are worried about the walls not running parallel, place a baton a short ditant from the wall and work away from the baton

You need to make sure you have a built in membrane on the underlay, if cost is a worry there is a foam with a membrane built in which would keep your cost down

I would follow up what the previous person said, the only other consideration is if any of the parquet blocks come loose in the future could cause problems and you will need to get under the floor to replace, so also conside removing parquet and screeding

You have no issue laying the engineered flooring on tiles, just make sure you use a suitable underlay with a built in damp proof membrane. You will also find these underlays which also have good thermal qualities.

Laminate flooring in bathrooms is generally not guaranteed, there are a few manafactuers that will guarantee certain laminate flooring, Quickstep offer a range called Lagune that was fully guaranteed and I have heard people mention a range called Aqualoc. Make sure you read there guidelines...

It is a big no no, do not put underlay under any solid wood flooring

As recommended by all means cut back from the edges to allow an expansion gap for the floor to settle down, other problems you may find are in the joints of the wood were the adhesive may of been used this may still give you gaps IF the floor does settle down. Would pull up the whole floor and...

We would recommend a rubber underlay that has good thermal qualities that has a build in Damp Proof Membrane. These are generally a silver or gold foil already attached to the underlay. The foil would be put face down to the subfloor.

If it is just colour as well as Walnut could possibly be an aged or fumed Oak as the floor has a heavy grain

There are many colours available in a laminate stair nose. Please be aware may be useful to have the profile before you finish the laminate on the edge of the step. If the laminate is already fitted you may need to trim back the last plank.

I would use a End Bar which is supplied with the base plate, this can be screwed into the sub-floor and the end bar is then pushed into the base plate. This can be easily removed if needed. It will give a neat right angled finish for matting to drop in.

I'd just like to point out that in a lot of Victorian houses, there are air flow issues where damp air flow gets through the floorboards into wood floors causing them to cup and move. In my experience, we have always checked the air flow bricks to make sure that they are correctly fitted. If...

Hi Woodyoulike, Just a bit of information for you, My name is Lou Collins i own a company called Jordans Wood Floor Warehouse based in London. This is my 19th year in business selling wood floors. I also owned a floor preparation company for over 5 years. Before that, I was a floor fitter...

There is no reason not to use an underlay with a built in damp proof membrane on a timber floor as long as there is no underfloor heating. If you are using fibreboard, then you should use a DPM sheet of no less than 1000 microns over the concrete hearth.

the problem could have arisen from a break in the DPC or a leaking pipe. But that would need further investigation. A damp test metre should be able to give you a good indication if there is excessive moisture in the subfloor. If you uplift all the materials, and lay Ardex screed, then it...

Hi, Almost impossible I'm afraid. The karndean should be bonded direct to a plyboard with a very strong adhesive, you would need to scrape the vinyl off the floor which would tear the vinyl as you go. As the product is fixed to your building you may want to claim on your building insurance.

Hi, The correct way of remedying this problem would be to uplift the laminate carefully, take up the parquet, grind off the bitumen, re screed the floor with a self levelling compound and then lay an underlay with a damp proof membrane attached. The incorrect way (but easiest and will...

Hi Bob, When laying any wood flooring or laminate over a concrete base then a damp proof membrane should be laid to stop any moisture from the concrete getting into the flooring. You can buy underlays with this already built in. There are foam underlays with ether a plastic sheet or a thin...