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Does anyone have any opinions/experience of using Kuterlite comp fittings on mdpe? I'm aware of the advantages of Philmac type fittings, but there is a specific reason why I'm considering using Kuterlite. I really want to know if Kuterlite does a good competent job. The Kuterlite body doesn't...

Not really. Two compression couplers and one length of pipe. If you can't manage with 3 mt (as that's the common length) then go to a proper plumbers' merchants and cut 4 mt, or whatever you want, from a 6 mt length. Keep the spare 2 mt as a souvenir.

That's most peculiar, it almost sounds as if the pump is not running, and even then I would think it would take more than one minute to bring the boiler up to temp (I'm assuming free-standing boiler, not a flimsy wall-mounted combi). The pump is working, I assume, as the rads get red hot (unless...

I thought that this was normal. Our oil boiler will fire up from cold, and - after about 40 mins - turn off on the boiler thermostat with the pump still running. The rads may be up to temp but the rooms aren't, so the roomstat is still calling for heat. The boiler then cycles five mins on, three...

This sounds like 1/2" steel pipework with BSP threads. If the ext dia is 3/4" then the internal will be 1/2", giving a wall thickness of 1/8". It probably was galvanised once. How long has it been installed? Long time probably = fragile, so don't be too robust with it. Danger points are where it...

Not absolutely correct. According to the manufacturer's info I read the pipe can rise above ground up to the point of entry in the building, and ditto to the tank at the other end. I can't remember if mechanical protection was mandatory, but it would be a good idea.

I've pondered for some time, in the interest of the human condition, why she is the only one of the various M&S chicks to get her kit off? Note that I am just querying the anomaly, not objecting in the slightest.

On what authority do manufacturers' instructions - often from a foreign state and quite often badly translated - supersede the UK regs, and therefore absolve the installer? I'm with BGE. The worst that can happen is that someone will switch the boiler off. The best that can happen is that...

For reasons I won't go into at the moment, I have been trying for some time to find copper or s/steel inserts for 32mm MDPE pipe. On my trawls through the internet I have learned that inserts (universally plastic) are required for metric mdpe pipe, but not for imperial. I couldn't quite grasp...

I couldn't really say. I doubt if you will need three tank fills a year, two maybe. What sort of boiler is it (combi, condensing?). Will you use the boiler for h/w in the summer? I suppose there are figures somwhere for costs per kw for oil and gas. You will get around 8.5 kw from a litre of...

It depends. How large is your house? Is it a new build with insulation to current standards? On top of a hill in the wilds or nestled in town? Are you at home all day? Active, sedentary, young, old, large family, on your own? do you like to live in a sauna or do you love cold showers? The...

That's debatable (and has been at length here before) but I think that the chances are that the OP doesn't have 'a proper tester'.

Or use your trusty neon test screwdriver on all three terminal blocks and report the results here. I don't like the way the red terminal block is snuggled up to the light fitting frame, is the steelwork earthed? (Or is that an illusion?)

Remove the existing fluor fitting, use your creative talents to swirl the Artex into the blank area with Pollyfilla or similar, repaint the ceiling white and you'll soon forget the light was ever there. Buy a few new electronic slim fluor fittings and fit them on the rear of the top of your...

'The solder won't stick' could mean anything. If the pipe has a lot of water in it then you will not get anywhere near to solder melting temp. If there is a little water in it then the pipe will get scalding hot over a considerable distance as the water turns to steam. If there's no water and...

Thanks for that. I shall go for heat resistant round flex. I have to make the usual three connections: there is plenty of three-core h/r flex available, but the 'third' core of course has the green/yellow earth insulation. Is it bad form to use such cable, or is it common practice if the 'earth'...

Can some kind person tell me what size cable I need to use to connect a Horstman HCT2 cyl stat to an oil boiler programmer? I assume that the current through this cable will be low, i.e the whole boiler burner/pump etc won't be passing through it, but the stat will energise relays in the boiler? Ta.

What size pipe is it? Did you use any type of joint sealant or just dry connections? What I should do is drain the system down, split the couplers, and apply a couple of turns of ptfe tape on the fitting side olive/pipe joint. In other words where the olive hits the coupler body, lay the ptfe...

This might not be answerable except in general terms. I have a Danesmoor 26/32 CF oil boiler with integral programmer, 28mm gravity f/r to large vented h/w cylinder, room stat, pump to rads and trvs. All standard 1970's stuff. The boiler is used for heating only (through the programmer), but...

Personally I would mark the part of the wall where the worktop fits, remove the worktop and chase the plaster in 6mm, or as far as you can before you hit cabling, etc. Then refit the top which will miraculously appear to be flush to the wall and finish the plasterwork/seal accordingly. I would...