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Thank you, I assume you mean can't see an issue... I think I'll do it for good measure, but perhaps not worry too much during the process then. Thanks again

I spoke to an mvhr person recently but the challenge was routing the air pipes, this was a solution they thought could work if the chimney was accessible to drop a pipe down inside. The actual mvhr would then sit in the attic as is often the case. Why do you say the stack is shaky/dangerous...

In principle I could remove the chimney externally down to my planned location but definitely a much bigger job, and whilst it might be the ideal solution for insulation and safety it's probably not worth it... Based on having removed one of the chimneys below (opened up for a cupboard and put...

Ive got two chimneys as shown below (each with three stacks for ground/first/second floor), in a mid-terraced 1880 house. As Im trying to insulate and improve my house Im part way through planning to put an MVHR in and use the chimney stack (which is out of use) for a fair bit of the pipework...

I didnt in the end, thought I would cause more damage by prying it open and then it is useless. Instead I cut a groove between the two tanks (iDos1 and iDos2 - which is repairable) and then told the washing machine to use the other pump instead. Seemed like a good solution without further...

Hmm, you make a good point, but I would do it tastefully... Given the age of the property I like keeping features, hence definitely keeping the door, but making a big effort to insulate, so we looking for some form of solid insulation board - like PIR insulation but less compressible...

I have a solid wood door that is really pretty but not the most insulated so I was going to have a go at making it a bit warmer.... I thought about the following 4 steps 1) Ive got a good brush setup to install and that should reducedraughts around the sides 2) Some parts of the door are quite...

@Johntheo5 Do you have any recommendations, or think any of them would be a bad choice? Thanks again for all your help!

I havent decided really, but the ones on my shortlist were: * Cheapest but unknown brand - https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/iqool-2ms9k9k/tcl-iqool2ms9k9k-air-conditioner * Have read good reviews but dont know for sure -...

Ok got it, thanks so much. I found this diagram which helps explain in a similar way https://iceblast.com.au/reverse-cycle-air-conditioning/ I kind of understand how the coil can function on both sides, but I dont understand how the expansion valve can work in both directions as I always...

Ok so in heating mode there is a second evaporator which can be chosen with valves being opened/closed, and in this case the evaporator is outside. Though does that not also mean the condenser also needs to be be moved inside, to actually extract the heat out of the refrigerant that was absorbed...

Thanks very much for the response. Ok I think its starting to make sense. So most 'heat pumps' as they are called in common usage will create a water based interface, and use either ground source or air source. That interface can then be used in a radiator / cylinder / air convector. These can...

Thanks for all your responses! Interesting reading. I had read that many air conditioning systems cannot reverse the heat pump direction and hence have low (100%) efficiency. Perhaps that isn't always the case... I'm aware that an air conditioner is a heat pump of sorts, but how is it different...

I was looking to get an air conditioner now that we have well insulated two rooms in our house, and then I realised that it would be helpful to make it heat aswell - since then the boiler can be off in the rest of the house. However when researching air conditioners I think I concluded they are...

I am renovating a few extra rooms in my house, and having previously used Cloud 9 Super Contract I thought I would see whether there is anything better. I quite like the sound insulation properties of Plushwalk 12mm, but I notice it has a damp proof membrane in it... I dont really have any...

Thanks, in that case I might also need to fill the bottom 10mm that my labourer who was helping me seemed to insist I had - but I would have agreed with you that it just means the air gets a layer closer to the room and hence more chance of condensation.... Thanks for sharing!

Hmm, I may live to regret that then, will try and minimise the number of screws through it since mostly it will be like a wardrobe with a structural back plate that actually supports the weight.... (so just needs securing from falling and straightening up) And presumably you did that insulation...

100% agree, Im just starting the journey now (shame as I wish I had done it when I did the full renovation 8 years ago, but it wasnt much of a thing then). Agreed its pretty weird stuff, but I found it was actually very easy to cut with a decent knife (and in fact you could score the 3mm MgO...

Thanks very much and apologies for digging up an old thread but I always think its useful to see the output! Hard to see from those pictures but looks good to me! I assume by metal strips on the corners you mean metal corner bead? Interesting, I know Aerogel is now available in a wallboard (WL)...

@MrsRenovator Could you add some pictures of the finished window? Im trying to work out how to plaster the MgO board at the moment, and also work out how to deal with windows, so very relevant! Thanks