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Hi. In my house the upstairs internal doors are 680mm wide (2' 3"). I have a situation involving the door into the bathroom where one option (to solve a problem) is to reduce the size of the door width to 630mm (2' 1"). Is a bathroom door width of 630mm acceptable - in principle? Thanks.

Okay, I phoned up the DNO and the cable has now been checked. Here is the report:- The cable is perfectly safe despite the two patches /spots where the hessian outer covering is missing. So, no action necessary. I think I've been lucky. I've made the assumption that services will be laid...

Cable is buried about 50cm. That outer covering, possibly cloth impregnated with pitch, is pretty fragile. Bit crumbly now.

That cable will be my mains supply cable. Here is a shot of the cable that enters my termination box in the home. It's the same diameter as the cable outside. It's about 1 1/8" diameter What I'm concerned about is the DNO only doing what is required and not doing work that is unnecessary that...

Okay, this morning I've done a recce, to see what we've got. As you see I've managed to dislodge some pieces of the outer covering of the cable in two places. Picture 02 shows a general view of the cable, and picture 02 shows a piece of that outer covering. Please note that there looks to be a...

If I take a conservative approach and have the DNO come out, that will cost me hundreds of pounds I suppose?

In digging up my garden (to de-crud it) I made the assumption that both the exterior gas service pipe and the exterior mains supply cable run under the path leading to the house. The gas supply pipe does appear to be laid under the path, but I've had a bit of a shock discovering that the mains...

The reason being if you can put up plaster board to make a wall, it must be kosher to put in non structural plywood. I've gone for 9mm thick non structural plywood. Using 9mm stripwood so the face of the plywood can be flush with the door frame edge.

I'm thinking of using 6mm plywood as backing for bathroom panels. The frame I'll make has 4 "windows", each being 330mm x 1220mm. So, distances between points of attachment are not large, well, at least in the horizontal direction. Not sure if I need to break up in the vertical direction into...

My preference would be to use Reco Surfaces "Azure" product. But I'd need two "full size" that would cost me £200. That's a lot of money for me, my budget does not allow this, unless I say "What the hell". I'd like to pay about £100 for two panels. Strictly speaking, if I use plastic panels...

And I do wonder that if I were to use a plastic sheet alternative to tiles, whether I would be okay to use external plywood. If I shave off 1mm from the studs, so the distance between the stud edge and the door frame side edge is 18mm, then 18mm thick plywood would fit such that it would be...

A cheaper alternative to "aqua panel" is I believe "no more ply". http://www.nomoreply.net/faq/

OK, I'll use the water-proof aqua "tile panel". If I do, then it actually allows me to place regular tiles directly onto it. The door frames in my house are recessed on one side, the recess being about 7mm deep by about 63mm. The distance from the edge of the recesses to the surface of the...

Since I made my first post, I've had a thought that maybe I should go with an alternative to tiles. Might mean I won't need special materials for the wall, or waterproofing steps.

Hi. I'm re-doing my bathroom. I removed the 660mm long breeze block wall to the right of the entrance door. Then I changed my mind about something and I need to put in a wall again, but this time I feel it's more convenient to put up a timber stud wall. This wall will become one side of a...

Yep. Although this a small brick wall, and in the circumstances the overhang isn't critical, in the sense that the wall is unlikely to fall over without it, given it's probably stable and secure on the pavement side, the right way is to pour in what will be the missing overhang. Cementing in...

I feel minded to cut off the overhang. That's messing with the foundation, inasmuch as the foundation would be expected to have about 150mm overhang either side of the wall. To put back the overhang I'm thinking about putting in a 6" x 6" length of concrete. I think that would be OK. But, then...

Well, I have a certain mindset. For instance, I've just dug up 1/3 of the garden for the purpose of removing all the crud left behind by the builders. There were tiles, concrete aggregates, bricks and a cement layer no doubt where the cement mixing had taken place. I just had to cleanse the...

If I used 2.44 m lengths of shuttering, then I'd need to pour concrete on 3 separate occasions. I think in principle that is okay. Would I need to lay in a metal bar at each of the section interfaces (of which there would be 2) to "lock" one section to another? Rich

What I'm minded to do, is remove the "over-hang" for half the distance of the length of the wall, that would be 3.6m. If the foundation is 6" thick just below the wall, then I would see the wall sitting on that 6" of foundation. In that 3.6m section, I'm minded to remove dirt to a depth of...