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Can you not make the alterations outside so the pipe enters the kitchen where you want it or even just behind the run of units but through the same wall with window it comes through now?

Extractor fan

Fensa registration or building regs sign off isn't required for fitting new windows or doors where the didn't previously exist, they are required for replacements of existing though, it's a strange quirk.

For 2m personally I'd stitch drill it and for the box outline and then either hammer and bolster chisel depending on how hard the block work is, if it's quite hard then sds chisel to knock out. Use a bit of tape on your drill bit when stitch drilling so there all at an even depth and it will...

Couldn't find the details for the lights I'd fitted so I went with loftlid covers from screwfix. Forgot to take a finished picture and there covered by boards now but they have done the job well enough. Chris.

I use an otofix d1, it's a clone of autel units, it's a bit more than the one you linked to but is a good bit of kit, I use mine for all sorts but I spend alot of my spare time messing on with cars

Couple of bits of suitable wood fixed to the wall then the rad brackets fixed to the wood to bring the rad out a bit further?

Hi all, As title really, I need to lay 200mm of loft insulation over a room that has led down lights fitted, do these still require covers fitted like the old non led units as they don't seem to produce much heat compared to older incandescent bulbs. If they do still require them can someone...

For me I'd fit 2 of the below...

You need to Id what size the hole is and if it's clear when the pipe is removed or full of silicone or some other gunk someone's used to try and seal that pipe into it. But to fix it you want a pipe bung, there normally 32mm or 40mm like below...

I did the similar recently for a 500w towel heater, in my case 1.5mm t+e from the nearest ceiling rose to a fcu then the towel heater into the load side of the fcu.

It doesn't really matter if it was the carpet or a Stanley, the fitter is responsible for damage done with either. You'll probably need to contact the manufacturer of the fire and see if that parts available as a spare and how much it is.

If it was my property I'd remove those 6 smaller pavers from the footpath and dig down to the existing pipework, if it's at the correct depth then I'd run my new mdpe pipework in and leave enough spare to reach the meter. If it isn't then I'd contact Thames water and tell them there original...

At a grand most plumbers are probably subbing the digging to a mate with a digger. If you pre dig the trench and then get a plumber round the quote will likely drop massively

You could start by speaking to the neighbour and seeing if their willing to move the shed a small amount anx fit guttering that side to take the water away from your wall. As your a new neighbour approaching them before trying to forcing them to do something is definitely the right approach...

I've nothing to say I'm afraid, I was doing too things at once and fat fingers managed to post a quote in your thread.

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Non demountable means it is a 1 time fit so you'd be looking at cutting and replacing the pipe

Where are you at, maybe someone local can help you out?

Not without having the internal ceiling down no. I'd be onto the building inspector that should never have been signed off without him seeing it insulated so I'd be pushing he either produces the documented evidence he took or his insurance pays towards the repair cost.