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you can buy timberboard up to about 800mm wide but depends on type of timber you want

is that not just a piece of timber fixed to the face dosnt look like a beam if so why not just remove and replace with something more suitable

what some people do with this type property is if the garge by the front door is your they convert that to a room

ive got one of these and for the money cheap compared to other if very quiet https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-mf100-100mm-mixed-flow-fan/26867

yes i wouldnt remove as said above it will be bracing the 2 purlings either side aslo the hips will be a weak part of the roof without the jacks so gotta stay the only way to get over it is if you have a spline wall through the center you could brace it down to them but you wouldnt be gaining...

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a sharp chisel will sort that but did you even sand it before you applied stain dab some dye or stain what ever you are using on the dowel a couple of times to darken its end grain so will absorb quicker than the rest

standard door size height is not though here you go http://www.doorsworld.co/p/Premdor_Moulded_6_Panel_Fully_Finished_Internal_Door.htm?door_width_attribute=711mm_(28in)

the only way to deal with the bullnose correctly is cut around it and leave a 10mm gap then put some cork in there the carpet will then hide same with the string but you will see the cork so neatly does it the newel post you can put the flooring to it mark then cut into it about half inch enough...

get yourself a sheet of ply or an area to create the bend mark the shape of the bay on to it and start bending graduly wipe the back with a damp cloth after each bend and leave for a few hour and so on its how i done the skirting and plasterboard to this

any tips left on blade ,blade the right way around you should never get smoke you must be forcing the hell out it unless you got a grinding disc on it

you need an engineer dont go bodging it you will regret it and cost more in the long run

if it just for tiling then somthing like this is ldeal for diy visability might not be that great in bright light which is why most use green line lasers now...

that looks more like dry rot that screw driver photo i would get it checked as it cou;d be behind plaster too but also signs of wet rot is there any spore looking things on any wood work under there

you cant buy them as far as i know we have to make them for concrete stairs usally out of mdf once you have a template for one of the steps its very simple even for a diyer we use 6mm plain or veneered for covers as to not stick out in front of skirting to much

i remember seeing one of my old bosses using a chain saw to put a dead lock in a door once forgot his drill bits

just do a search for cedral weatherboard https://southgatetimber.co.uk/products/details/Cedral_Lap_Weatherboard?gclid=CjwKCAjwssvPBRBBEiwASFoVdwPmme4wAdD_rnF86O7G5T6tWlqnr93qSXSyZvL0Z2s5VoBdtb1PiBoC3IYQAvD_BwE

tin hats are great untill you have get these under them great this time of year

we normally cut membrane at corners then wrap inside covering whole window reveal

egger protect is very good for wet conditions ( better than caber crap) we use it alot on attic truss roofs and never have any problems with water damage if glued correctly its a lot harder than most chipboards so if you use mechanical fixings put a dob of glue on the heads to keep water tight