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Is the backup battery for the bellbox the battery that I pictured above ? I thought it would be inside the external bell box! If the mains power is off and that battery is removed how can it ring at all ?

Yes that's the plan, I'm having someone else do the rendering so I just want to give him as much info as possible on how to shut the alarm up to save his ears. The tamper switch on the control panel is a spring that's attached to the board and putting the cover back on presses that switch in...

Hope those are showing ok, there's a tamper on the control panel, went off when I removed the cover. The small white box above the control panel says 'cisco' I think that's the sensor for the 'lock/unlock' keyring remotes I have. Thanks.

I'm having the back of my house insulated and rendered, bell box will have to come off. I don't know the make and model, it was installed by a Nottinghamshire company called 'cables electrical' they have a couple of shops and a few vans operating in the area. It was fitted around 5 years ago...

UPDATE. My living room rad which was cold is now warm at the top but cold at the bottom, both valves are fully open and one is thermostatic, the boiler has a dial for how hot I want the heating water to be and that is set to the highest.

I have 7 rads and one ladder style towel heater. 3 of the 4 downstairs rads are cold including the pipes leading to the valves, valves are fully open. 1 of the downstairs rads is only 4 metres from the boiler and that one is hot. The towel heater and two other upstairs rads are hot but one rad...

I'm fitting some internal wooden cladding/panelling. Behind it I have chopped out the plaster back to brick and I'm now going to insulate the wall before the panels go on. This particular corner gets mouldy every winter or else I wouldn't be doing the job, it needs insulation and the cladding...

For vans as common as a transit connect I would've thought the fridge units would be mass produced, there must be thousands on the road. Thanks for the replies, I'll get some cooler boxes and ice packs though, most food I carry are non perishable or drinks.

Why is it so expensive? I expected around £1,000 tops for the compressor, condenser and fan unit, probably a new battery and wiring and then some insulation. It's for carrying fresh food I think I'll buy a few cooler boxes and ice packs!

I'm looking to buy something like a transit connect, Renault kangoo or similar and then get it refrigerated. What would the cost of this be? I had a quote of £3,500+ VAT but this is a lot more than I expected.

I have an old house with solid brick walls, walls are cold and damp so I've put up some thermal paper. I used regular solvite extra strong but some parts of it are peeling off. I see now there is thermal adhesive which is probably what I should have used. Should I tear it all down and start...

Got them tightened up using a combination spanner (24mm and 32mm spanner). Got a basin wrench aswell for future use. Getting someone in to replace with soldered joints. Thanks for replies.

Ok thanks for your replies, ill look into soldering if I can remove enough of the pipe to solder it then refit. The connection shown in my first picture has a solder connection further down the pipe as you can see which then dissappears through the joist so I can't remove that section to solder...

While I have access is it a good idea to replace the connections? So is PTFE ok on the thread but not lower down on the olive? I think it was a plumber that did it, I had someone fit the towel heater and he had to adjust those pipes to get them coming up into the room at the right spots.

Is there a problem with the joints aside the obvious leaks? I'll look for those spanners, cheers.

On the second photo I think it's actually the nut thats facing up that's leaking, not visible in the picture but it's just mm's from the underside of the floorboards.

I noticed this morning my kitchen ceiling was wet with a small damp patch, checked visible pipes in bathroom above and they are dry so cut a section of kitchen ceiling away and found two elbow compression nuts both leaking. There is only around 4-5 inches of space between a joist and a brick...

What do you mean by useful airgap? Shouldn't I pack the cavity with insulation? Also, how do I go about the window opening? Should that be boarded aswell? How would the corners going into the opening work? Thanks.

I'm not surprised at that kind of response, I know some might see it as controversial. It's my loft though and I want it done my way, not dictated by BC. I'm still willing to spend hundreds on calcs and drawings and thousands more to get an experienced builder to do the bulk of the work. It's...