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Thanks for the reply, I'm having hallway, stairs, landing, living room and 3 bedrooms carpeted as I said at the start of my post. Haven't chosen carpets yet, I was thinking we would buy the carpets at somewhere like united then get an independent fitter, I read up about the united carpets free...

I'm about to have a lot of my house carpeted (living room, hallway, stairs, landing and 3 bedrooms). I've never dealt with carpet fitters before nor do I have any knowledge about what I should be asking about how they will do the job. I don't like feeling unprepared when someone is coming over...

I'm guessing they would have their own circuit normally ? I'd like to get an electric roller shutter on the end of my drive, perhaps with it being a roller and not large metal or wooden gates it would be lighter and the power requirement would be lower ? Could anyone recommend a company...

Good point EFL. Maybe I do worry too much, I'm just making sure everything is properly sealed. I won't sink the legs in then, saves a job :P

I'll silicone everything. Why would the housing fill with water ? If those legs were sunk into the render and then sealed with silicone afterwards I don't see how water could get in. The legs seem unnecessary, they're creating a gap where the cable is exposed. I think I'll sink the legs...

I've plastered over the channel where the cable lies now, there's nothing wrong with the cable, it's the attached power cable that came with the fire. I'm just looking for a better way to terminate the strands. I bought a ratcheted crimp tool today...

I googled those ferrules, they look right. Cheers. You say a special crimp tool, is that something other than standard ratchet crimpers ?

The cable is a power cable from an electric fire, I cut the plug off and want to wire it into an FCU. The strands are extremely fine and break easily, I don't want to bend them back and have them snap, I don't have much cable to play with as it is. Thanks for the reply.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Byron-Motion-Detector-Switch-1000W/dp/B001B0R45W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top I have this PIR to fit but I'm worried about water getting into the unit where the connector block is. You can see on the picture that the housing for the connector block will not sit flush to...

What's the best crimp connection to use for terminating stranded cable into the back of a switch ? I've looked at spade, pin and fork terminals but I'm not sure which is most suitable.

I know a shop that sells cable by the meter so I'll get some 1.0mm from there. The wall doesn't have cavities, house was built in 1901. I'll slope the hole and seal it, then the PIR will cover it aswell. Thanks for the help.

I'll probably use 2.5mm because I'll have some left after putting some other cabling in. The light and the PIR are separate so if I have to run some cable on the outside, how do I protect it ?

What size drill bit should I be using to run the cable through the wall ? My thickest bit is 14mm. Also, do I need to put something into the hole to protect the cable before the cable actually goes through ? Like a conduit I suppose. Cheers, Lee.[/b]

I'd guess there would only be around 2 meters difference in the cable lengths between their first sockets and the fuse board. One cable will travel about 12m to it's first and 14m for the other.

To increase capacity on the circuit, putting a 30 or 32A breaker on a 2.5mm radial is bad for the cable ?

Point taken RF, thanks for the replies everyone.

I meant I'll change it now if it's going to cause a problem with testing, keep your hair on.

The 15A is going up to 20A on the same circuit that's being changed from radial to ring, wired with 2.5mm twin & earth (check other thread, I'm taking out the old two core). So a 20A ring final (continuously earthed) wired with 2.5mm, all good ?

If it's going to be a problem when it comes to testing then I'll remove the two core for two core & earth. So back to crimping... Blue for 2.5mm and yellow for the 1.5mm earth ?

Why would it be dangerous ?