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I’ve been renewing CH drops in bungalow. I’ve got some drafty gaps that need closing where the 15mm copper pipes come down from loft. What’s the best material and technique to close them up. Thanks D

Sorry - that second one for the 22mm pipe is a bit less at 19/22/19

Thanks reply @Exedon - I was meaning the thickness of the insulation 25mm - 15mm pipe - 25mm = 65mm diameter 25mm - 22mm pipe - 25mm = 72mm diameter Best D

I’m in process of restoring a Central Heating system in my (old) bungalow. I’d like to improve my pipe insulation in loft - presently pipes are lagged with a felty looking sleeve. A quick measure up; I’d need about 80m of the thicker pipe insulation (25mm/pipe/25mm) I was a bit surprised to find...

Thank you @Johntheo5 I’ll need to look/digest that Many thanks D

@Johntheo5 - can I just check something …. If I take the same physical size of radiator, same Δt of 20 but now at a lower flow temperature; let’s say the 1kW example by was at 80/60 and I now run same rad at 70/50 and achieve a reduced 0.75kW output. (0.75x860/60/20)x60 =32.25 L/hr So this...

Thank you @Johntheo5 - that’s very kind of you. May I ask; is Δt the difference between flow and return temperatures ? Thanks D

I bought some Danfoss TRVs (RAS-B2). They are (dynamic) valves with a preset numbered dial to save faffing with lock-shields to balance a system (lock-shields are all left fully open). The spec states suitable for a flow rate 10-135l/hr; Danfoss kindly provided this formula to check flow rate...

Thanks reply @opps. As you say, it’s a bit cheaper than CT1 - I’ll give it a try. D

Has anyone experience of using OB1 for caulking ? Or a recommendation for interior caulking that won’t shrink / crack fall out when I turn my back. Thanks D

I did - it’s very nice. Much prefer it to the Trade Diamond Eggshell. And it had a nice matt (but smooth) finish; the Diamond Egshell has much more sheen than it once did. D

Anyone had any experience of the DANFOSS RAS-B² Dynamic TRV. …………a good idea or another thing to go wrong ? Thanks D

For sure. Thanks for tips. D

Thank you @blup I’ve just bought smallest towel rail I could find and a 150W element so a timer is a good shout. Best D

Thank you @opps and noted on bathroom. I’ve just given some Trade Diamond Eggshell a go in bathroom and ummmmm - can’t get on with that at all. The old water based eggshell was lovely paint, this stuff is hard work. I might get some Johnstones Trade Acrylic Durable Matt for bathroom and...

Thanks reply @footprints. I’ve tried it on a few walls now and it covers really well; never seen the walls look so good. So much so, I’m tempted to leave the Supermatt finish in bedrooms / low traffic areas. D

Hi all, I’ve been using Dulux Trade Supermatt and I like the opacity and Matt finish; it covers well in a really old house with many imperfections. I appreciate that it’s very low vinyl content means it’s not tough and washable and that it will mark being ultra Matt. That aside, is there any...

I may have confused things there - I was meaning my DT50 equivalent figure is 5.5kW. Ie I’ve taken my room heat loss of 2.8kW and used a DT30 correction factor (equiv 5.5kW in the ‘standard tables’). That said, I’ve attached my workings out for that room - please let me know if you spot any...

I think 450(h) is about my max - that gives me 25mm (to cill) wiggle room to mount rad on brackets and 125mm underneath for air convection (whereas Stelrad recommend 150mm) D

Thanks reply and pointer; I have been looking at these. Eg….,window cill at 600mm. The two outgoing rads were 300h k3 at 300h x 1000 and 2000 are 1349W and 2698W respectively I’d need one of each (2x 2000mm would block off the 13A mains socket) That gives me 4,047W - I’m looking for 5,500W so...