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I'd recommend you add 10% White Spirit to the Hardwax Oil and give the container a good shake.

Hi Tony, So many options. For that factory finish there's no doubt you want to spray on something like AC2 Lacquer. However brush applying a waterbased lacquer such as Aquacoat SP will also come quite near too. Have you tried this company ? Open tomorrow so just pop in and speak to Drew...

Agree 100% with what David P and here is a link if you want to buy the right product over the internet: Aquacoat SP Ian

Hi Douglas, If you're not looking to alter the colour of the timber (no more than simply wetting the surface with a damp cloth) then I'd recommend a waterbased coating something like Aquacoat SP (Matt, Satin or Gloss). It's a waterbased product that makes it very easy to use and is far more...

Why didn't I think of that. many thanks. Ian

Hope you don't mind me picking up on this thread. I've recently resealed the bath with a silicon seal but immediately i stood to have a shower 3 days later the bath creaked slightly (I'm not that heavy) and the seal gave way from the bath. Any advice?

In my opinion Danish Oil is better but go for the one made by Smith & Rodger or Classic Finishes - they supply a more structured DO which will offer far better protection that conventional Danish Oils. Tung Oil is an option but it is recommended you leave it 4 days to dry between coats...

Beech is a pretty featureless wood when it comes to grain appearance it doesn't have the deep open grain of oak say so I'm not so sure that grain filling would make an appreciable difference here. Besides that you would have to remove all of the old oil prior to applying the grain filler...

I'd recommend you clean the table down with some Joynes Wade Waxless Cleaning Polish then apply wax polish using some OOOO steelwool. For the frayed edges, lightly sand them smooth then apply 2 coats of shellac sanding sealer sanding back between coats and finishing off with OOOO steelwool...

Osmo have recently launched an exterior Oil for timber called UV - protection Oil. We're currently in the process of testing how good it is on some wood that we've placed outside. The Hardwax Oil is designed for floors but does not contain any UV absorbers so in answering your question they...

I just have to give an alternative to Oil and wax. As you mention you're after a low maintenance product which you'll be able to leave for years. You're also after a quick drying process due to your cats. In that case I'd definitely use a products such as Aquacoat XTRA from Smith and Rodger...

Know exactly what you're after https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Shellac_Polishes.html

You could use, Liberon Black Bison Paste Wax Clear, Smith and Rodger (Glasgow) Superwax White Polish or Harrells Wax. Any of these will do the job.

So long as you buff it off thoroughly you'll have no problem. Ian

Two options here, 1. You could use 0000 steelwool and some wax. Rub onto the surface in even sweepeing movemnets leave for a few minutes and buff off. This should dull down the sheen level of your existing Danish Oil. 2. Buy Smith & Rodger's Danish Oil, it's different from all the other...

You could try Joynes Wade Waxless Cleaning Polish - works brilliantly on wood, glass and plastic not sure about terracotta but it's certainly worth a shot. Hope this helps

I'm not entirely sure but if you contact Tor Coatings technical team I'm sure they will be able to help Tel: 0191-410-6611 Hope they can help Ian

It's always sensible to stick with the same product throughout. This is especially the case with Danish Oil - manufacturers all have their own formulation and some are vastly different to others. Hope this helps Ian

One alternative is to apply a waterbased stained lacquer and then overcoat it with 2-3 coats of a clear https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Floor_Coatings.htmlwaterbased lacquer Matt. It is a far harder wearing option and will not require the same maintenance as Harwax Oils...

My only thought is that there is something within the grain of the wood that is making the polyurethane finish incompatible. Perhaps the wood was quite oily and that has come out of the timber causing your problem. In my opinion I think the only option is to sand it all back to the bare...