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Please let us know how you get on with the Hardwax Oil I am very interested to know more about it's abrasion resistance properties. Unusual that the varnish should have worn away so quickly can you tell us exactly what it said in the tin, was it a B&Q own brand? Good to know so we can advise...

Have you tried an industrial paint/varnish/polish remover? Something like Ultimate Paint Stripper....very aggressive but effective.

Sanding is the best way to do it and certainly the easiest way. However we have a customer that has recently bought a sizeable amount of our methylene chloride based stripper. They were working in a large castle over in Dublin and didn't want to remove any of the 200 year old wood partly...

Dear AdviceDIY, Just please make sure you read the instructions of Hardwax Oil before applying, as WYL says, it can last for years if applied properly (thinly) but you can see in this forum that it has caused many people many problems over the years. My personal choice would have been a...

You should be able to pick them up at your local paint store, sometimes they are called Kolorit stainers. If you have no luck then you can buy them at www.frenchpolishes.com click on Ratcliffe's products in the shop area and then scroll down. Hope it all works out.[/url]

Not sure if it would disperse properly. I'd double check with Osmo technical dept. Our customer added universal stainers to the Hardwax Oil and applied a thin coat over two existing coats and it worked out fine. The good thing about the universal stainers is that they live up to their...

This may help, we had a customer with a similar problem. They managed to mix up some universal stainers (available in 10 different shades) and then add them into the hardwax oil. You must be careful not to add more than 5% by volume but this may be a way to avoid having to sand the floor. IMO...

Sorry that link won't work. The website is: www.mdfinney.co.uk

You could also try this site, the owner is very experienced and helpful. Furniture Plans [/url]

A big sand should do the job in getting back to the bare surface. If it doesn't, and the stain is deeply pregnated into the suface, you may want to try a wood bleach (Vitableach works well) to get a uniform base and then an exterior microporous finish (Woodshield). Agree with Aardvark about...

It's not the way I would have gone (prefer staining first then overcoating with a clear coating) but it's well worth trying the product you've already bought.

I'd try using White Spirit and a stiff brush to clean off any old residue. Danish Oil is normally deep penetrating so the only way to remove it entirely is to sand it out. Don't think this is usually essential and a good clean with white spirit and then a quick sand should do the job. Then you...

There's no doubt that for the best looking, even appearance, you really want to sand off all the old finishes and have a pine base that is uniform. However, I understand that this may not be appealing and so you could try applying stain to the pine to match it with the old finish. Not sure...

It's a personal choice this one but I'd always try to retain the natural beauty of the wood. Just my opinion.

It's always mopre sensible to stick with the same manufacturer throughout. They will have tested the products and 100% sure about their compatability. Agree the branded products are more expensive but it's not worth the risk. Hope this helps.

Sorry to hear that, did you try a methylene chloride stripper?

Just realised the original post was made in March, I wonder how the problem was fixed?

If it's got a film then definitely give a methylene chloride based paint stripper a go. Nasty to use but sound like it may be the easiest solution.

Once you've sanded the floor you can use the sawdust generated and add it to a clear resin floor/gap filler. This process is popular amongst flooring contractors to fill any gaps and holes and achieves the closest match to the existing floor. Other options are 2 pack woodfillers but they are...

Have you tried a product called Aquacoat SP Matt? Although you've already tried waterbased I would recommend this one. To achieve the desired finish thin it with water to about 20-30%. this will give you a very thin protective coat that will not change the colour of the timber. I'd only...