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The boiler runs on low rate for a little while when it first fires but then should ramp up to full pretty soon. If it's staying on low then there's likely a blockage somewhere so the temperature rise is too fast.

Last time I had this exact fault on this exact boiler someone had tried topping up the pressure and turned off the flow/return valve instead. It's either that or the diverter valve has failed in the hot water position. An airlock would have cleared itself by just running it on heating for a...

It is a Greenstar Junior then. Would have been useful to know in the first post.

Particularly the PCB on this model. Melted APS is a common occurrence.

Not so sure on airlock at all myself truth be told...

28i Junior is a standard efficiency combi with bithermal heat exchanger. "Greenstar" denotes that it's a condensing boiler with Worcester.

28i Junior doesn't have a diverter valve!

I tried to clean one of those damn things once.. After several cuts and 20mins I chucked it in the bin and changed it to a Spirotech with a tiny bit of pipe to make up the gap.

Most instructions for magnetic filters do say the return is the "preferred" option but not strictly necessary. If there was room it does make you wonder why it wasn't put there in the first place, but I certainly wouldn't worry about it.

Why don't you ask him then?

Works for me 9 times out of 10. It may well be a circulator but when you force it to circulate where you want it to then the head is usually enough to push the air through.

Drain the majority from the ground floor and basement rad into containers. Second point... Completely pointless. If you turn off every rad except the non working one and run the heating you've done the same thing without any extra work.

It's an Ideal Logic with less warranty and therefore cheaper to buy. Just ask the installer for the price difference.

Alpha2 etc all fit a standard old Grundfos body.

It would ideally (for efficiency) but that's not for you to decide. As long as a modern immersion is fitted then you won't have the trouble again.

Heating wise you're already probably at least twice as powerful as you actually need, so don't even consider when adding another radiator. It's hot water performance which is the deciding factor with a combi. If your incoming water main isn't going to improve then it won't make one bit of...

"ideally" should be two... but there are millions of homes where they have exactly what you describe (upstairs/downstairs). Definitely a common thing.

Don't be too disheartened if you get water initially from the schraeder. Let it all out and still try to pressurise the boiler. It can be condensation. If you have an open end and the diaphragm is genuinely split you won't be able to get it to hold ANY pressure no matter how long you pump for.

I'd go with the mangnaclean method but to add to it... I'd fill and drain the existing system a few times over to at least get rid of the suspended muck in the system before connecting up the new boiler. You could even put some chemical cleaner in now while you're waiting so that it's dislodged...

On a Linea? :eek:. Pretty sure OpenTherm compatibility wasn't included on them back then ;).